1 00:00:03,470 --> 00:00:05,672 For most of the year South Africa's 2 00:00:05,672 --> 00:00:10,477 western border with the sea is severe and unforgiving. 3 00:00:13,180 --> 00:00:18,452 It's a narrow and harsh belt of coastline called the Sandveld. 4 00:00:21,688 --> 00:00:24,458 But for the creatures that live in the ocean, 5 00:00:24,458 --> 00:00:27,594 it's an entirely different story 6 00:00:32,199 --> 00:00:33,767 A rich current 7 00:00:33,767 --> 00:00:37,070 provides generously for every inhabitant of the sea. 8 00:00:39,573 --> 00:00:41,208 For those that thrive 9 00:00:41,208 --> 00:00:44,144 in the cold temperatures and stormy swells, 10 00:00:44,144 --> 00:00:48,348 this underwater domain is a sanctuary. 11 00:00:48,348 --> 00:00:52,753 The Sandveld is a land of contrasts, 12 00:00:52,753 --> 00:00:58,458 And every creature has adapted to endure its volatile habitat. 13 00:01:33,327 --> 00:01:36,229 South Africa's western frontier with the sea 14 00:01:36,229 --> 00:01:39,299 is a harsh and arid terrain. 15 00:01:42,502 --> 00:01:45,472 A narrow strip of land shouldering the ocean, 16 00:01:45,472 --> 00:01:50,544 the Sandveld is as unyielding as it is beautiful. 17 00:01:56,483 --> 00:02:02,456 The sands that line the coast are coarse and drained. 18 00:02:02,456 --> 00:02:06,093 They provide only for hardy shrubs 19 00:02:06,093 --> 00:02:08,528 and their resilient residents. 20 00:02:10,731 --> 00:02:14,634 The seasons fluctuate between extremes. 21 00:02:16,103 --> 00:02:18,138 The inhabitants of the Sandveld 22 00:02:18,138 --> 00:02:21,375 have to withstand the relentless winds, 23 00:02:21,375 --> 00:02:23,477 The salt-laden mists - 24 00:02:25,712 --> 00:02:28,382 And the scorching sun. 25 00:02:31,618 --> 00:02:34,187 But for a small portion of the year 26 00:02:34,187 --> 00:02:36,289 after the winter rains finish, 27 00:02:36,289 --> 00:02:39,659 the August spring brings new life - 28 00:02:42,429 --> 00:02:46,666 and the landscape becomes a wonderland. 29 00:02:50,570 --> 00:02:54,608 While they patiently await the arrival of spring, 30 00:02:54,608 --> 00:02:57,177 the animals on this stretch of earth 31 00:02:57,177 --> 00:03:00,614 stubbornly endure their unforgiving home. 32 00:03:03,550 --> 00:03:07,320 The ocean paints a very different picture. 33 00:03:09,089 --> 00:03:11,124 The rocky shores that abruptly sever 34 00:03:11,124 --> 00:03:15,462 the Sandveld's link to the ocean are rich and nurturing. 35 00:03:18,432 --> 00:03:22,736 The sea is as plentiful as the land is scarce. 36 00:03:28,208 --> 00:03:32,379 While the terrestrial creatures fight the severity of the land, 37 00:03:32,379 --> 00:03:34,548 those that live in the sea 38 00:03:34,548 --> 00:03:40,153 group in their masses to enjoy the generosity of the ocean. 39 00:03:43,657 --> 00:03:46,359 The neighbors of these two bordering realms 40 00:03:46,359 --> 00:03:49,796 are as dissimilar as their habitats. 41 00:03:52,099 --> 00:03:54,101 And every animal here 42 00:03:54,101 --> 00:03:59,139 must endure the seasons and cope with the area in which it lives. 43 00:04:19,693 --> 00:04:22,696 This stretch of beach in the north of the Sandveld 44 00:04:22,696 --> 00:04:26,266 is home to the Cape fur seal - 45 00:04:31,238 --> 00:04:34,207 and it's their permanent base. 46 00:04:35,675 --> 00:04:38,445 Seals are ocean-based mammals, 47 00:04:38,445 --> 00:04:41,381 but they have strong ties to the land. 48 00:04:47,687 --> 00:04:51,458 They spend most of their time in the sea, 49 00:04:55,128 --> 00:04:57,397 Yet they still breathe air 50 00:04:57,397 --> 00:05:01,568 and they have to come on to land to rest and to give birth. 51 00:05:05,639 --> 00:05:08,575 Seals are a curious crossover species 52 00:05:08,575 --> 00:05:12,979 caught somewhere between two vastly different worlds - 53 00:05:14,314 --> 00:05:16,716 part land and part ocean. 54 00:05:19,219 --> 00:05:22,255 They're considerably more cumbersome when moving around 55 00:05:22,255 --> 00:05:25,825 on solid ground. 56 00:05:25,825 --> 00:05:31,665 This is where they are most vulnerable to predation, 57 00:05:31,665 --> 00:05:35,569 but also where they need to come to breed. 58 00:05:41,374 --> 00:05:44,144 Because of this, large groups of seals 59 00:05:44,144 --> 00:05:49,049 only occur where terrestrial predators are limited. 60 00:05:53,620 --> 00:05:57,557 Optimum sites are few and far between. 61 00:06:01,061 --> 00:06:03,697 This beach at Kleinzee in the Sandveld 62 00:06:03,697 --> 00:06:07,634 holds the largest on-land aggregation of Cape fur seals 63 00:06:07,634 --> 00:06:09,135 in the world. 64 00:06:15,709 --> 00:06:20,580 With such large numbers, prime space is a valuable commodity - 65 00:06:24,150 --> 00:06:28,521 One that only the dominant bulls can procure. 66 00:06:34,361 --> 00:06:36,663 A successful bull territory 67 00:06:36,663 --> 00:06:40,667 can contain up to 30 females and their offspring. 68 00:06:46,640 --> 00:06:50,477 The pups will nurse for 10 months, until spring. 69 00:06:54,180 --> 00:06:56,683 Then the big bulls will emerge 70 00:06:56,683 --> 00:07:00,387 to fight for the best mating sites. 71 00:07:09,562 --> 00:07:11,464 Forcing the youngsters out 72 00:07:11,464 --> 00:07:15,035 to face the challenges of the ocean by themselves. 73 00:07:24,477 --> 00:07:26,179 The arrival of spring 74 00:07:26,179 --> 00:07:30,050 signals the beginning of their independence. 75 00:07:36,222 --> 00:07:39,125 Because of the double-nature of their existence, 76 00:07:39,125 --> 00:07:41,494 seals can choose whether to face the dangers 77 00:07:41,494 --> 00:07:43,563 of the Atlantic ocean, 78 00:07:45,598 --> 00:07:48,468 or the severity of the land. 79 00:07:52,272 --> 00:07:55,508 Not every animal has this luxury. 80 00:07:58,378 --> 00:08:01,214 While spring means exile for the baby seals, 81 00:08:01,214 --> 00:08:03,583 the Sandveld's landlocked inhabitants 82 00:08:03,583 --> 00:08:07,087 desperately await its arrival. 83 00:08:11,458 --> 00:08:15,295 Imprisoned by barriers of mountains and rivers on one side 84 00:08:15,295 --> 00:08:18,298 and the cold Atlantic on the other, 85 00:08:21,668 --> 00:08:25,438 the animals that live here have to endure the hot summer 86 00:08:25,438 --> 00:08:27,207 and wet winter, 87 00:08:27,207 --> 00:08:32,145 waiting for the brief window of life in spring. 88 00:08:34,280 --> 00:08:39,419 During the summer the Sandveld is hostile and scarce. 89 00:08:39,419 --> 00:08:44,257 Temperatures reach 90 degrees Fahrenheit. 90 00:08:44,257 --> 00:08:47,327 And only half an inch of rainfall 91 00:08:47,327 --> 00:08:50,096 reaches the land per month. 92 00:08:51,564 --> 00:08:55,235 Little is provided for those who live here. 93 00:08:55,835 --> 00:08:57,337 And death 94 00:08:57,337 --> 00:08:59,406 is a constant visitor. 95 00:09:01,374 --> 00:09:03,309 Within this landscape, 96 00:09:03,309 --> 00:09:06,679 the smallest of creatures have made their home. 97 00:09:13,787 --> 00:09:18,024 The Angulate tortoise is bound to wander the Sandveld, 98 00:09:18,024 --> 00:09:23,062 laboriously moving through the terrain in search of shelter. 99 00:09:28,501 --> 00:09:31,237 They are hardy and robust, 100 00:09:31,237 --> 00:09:34,441 able to survive in difficult conditions. 101 00:09:36,309 --> 00:09:39,546 And there are a number of tricks that help them endure 102 00:09:39,546 --> 00:09:42,015 their dry habitat. 103 00:09:43,516 --> 00:09:47,587 Their skin is hard and impermeable. 104 00:09:47,587 --> 00:09:52,325 This greatly reduces the amount of water that they lose. 105 00:09:53,827 --> 00:09:55,695 The dry Sandveld wind 106 00:09:55,695 --> 00:09:59,299 consistently withers all that it encounters, 107 00:10:01,234 --> 00:10:03,503 and so the Angulate tortoise 108 00:10:03,503 --> 00:10:07,207 spends as little time away from the shelter of the shrubs 109 00:10:07,207 --> 00:10:09,108 as it can. 110 00:10:15,448 --> 00:10:17,417 The key to their survival 111 00:10:17,417 --> 00:10:19,385 is their shy nature. 112 00:10:40,807 --> 00:10:42,709 But there are other reptiles here 113 00:10:42,709 --> 00:10:44,711 that have adapted to take advantage 114 00:10:44,711 --> 00:10:48,081 of the abundant exposure of the open lands. 115 00:10:57,724 --> 00:11:01,060 Where the hot summer sun is a persecution to others, 116 00:11:01,060 --> 00:11:03,396 it is a source of life and mobility 117 00:11:03,396 --> 00:11:05,632 for the lizards of the Sandveld. 118 00:11:14,107 --> 00:11:17,810 They are cold blooded, so they need to bask in the sun 119 00:11:17,810 --> 00:11:20,780 to regulate their body temperature. 120 00:11:27,587 --> 00:11:31,791 But this can be as much a burden as it is a blessing 121 00:11:31,791 --> 00:11:35,061 especially in the Sandveld. 122 00:11:40,800 --> 00:11:44,604 Relying on the sun's heat means this Cape girdled lizard 123 00:11:44,604 --> 00:11:48,408 has to leave itself exposed in plain view. 124 00:11:59,686 --> 00:12:02,522 The boulders that the lizard depends on for basking 125 00:12:02,522 --> 00:12:06,659 are the ideal hunting ground for a Rock kestrel. 126 00:12:18,204 --> 00:12:21,174 But these rocks are also the main defense 127 00:12:21,174 --> 00:12:23,242 of the Sandveld's reptiles. 128 00:12:24,410 --> 00:12:27,480 Their solace is temporary; 129 00:12:27,480 --> 00:12:32,752 soon they must leave again to find warmth and food. 130 00:12:32,752 --> 00:12:36,656 And so they rely on both the shelter of the rock crevices 131 00:12:36,656 --> 00:12:39,726 and on the open exposure of the surface. 132 00:12:41,694 --> 00:12:45,765 A curious double bind that sees these small reptiles 133 00:12:45,765 --> 00:12:49,702 constantly maneuvering around the boulders of the Sandveld. 134 00:12:55,608 --> 00:12:57,510 One species 135 00:12:57,510 --> 00:13:01,214 seems to have solved this dilemma in an interesting way. 136 00:13:10,757 --> 00:13:12,492 Armadillo girdled lizards 137 00:13:12,492 --> 00:13:16,195 have a heavily armored outer tail and body, 138 00:13:17,764 --> 00:13:21,367 but their soft underbellies are vulnerable. 139 00:13:26,572 --> 00:13:31,844 And they have dealt with this in an intriguing fashion. 140 00:13:31,844 --> 00:13:34,714 By biting their tails, the lizards ensure 141 00:13:34,714 --> 00:13:38,651 that they don't leave their vulnerable sections exposed. 142 00:13:40,720 --> 00:13:43,389 And they have another tactic to protect themselves 143 00:13:43,389 --> 00:13:48,261 from the predators of the Sandveld. 144 00:13:48,261 --> 00:13:51,664 Armadillo girdled lizards aggregate in large groups. 145 00:13:56,169 --> 00:13:59,205 They have sentries manning multiple posts, 146 00:14:02,775 --> 00:14:05,745 facing all directions. 147 00:14:08,114 --> 00:14:11,317 If a threat comes from the sky or the ground, 148 00:14:11,317 --> 00:14:15,321 it will be seen by one of the many lizards on watch. 149 00:14:19,292 --> 00:14:23,329 They wait underneath the protection of overhanging rocks, 150 00:14:23,329 --> 00:14:25,398 only leaving to bask 151 00:14:25,398 --> 00:14:27,033 or to eat. 152 00:14:33,506 --> 00:14:38,578 Within such large groups, there are hierarchies. 153 00:14:43,149 --> 00:14:45,618 And when food is limited, 154 00:14:45,618 --> 00:14:49,455 only the most dominant get to enjoy it. 155 00:14:51,390 --> 00:14:55,762 Socializing among lizards is not a common phenomenon, 156 00:14:55,762 --> 00:14:59,165 but suitable cover is limited. 157 00:14:59,165 --> 00:15:03,569 So Armadillo girdled lizards join together to find food, 158 00:15:03,569 --> 00:15:05,505 shelter from the elements 159 00:15:05,505 --> 00:15:08,207 and evade predators. 160 00:15:16,549 --> 00:15:20,720 Refuge is not easy to come across in the Sandveld. 161 00:15:23,422 --> 00:15:28,161 Only the hardiest vegetation can survive this difficult terrain. 162 00:15:31,097 --> 00:15:35,535 This is Namaqualand sand fynbos; 163 00:15:41,440 --> 00:15:46,045 It occupies 270,000 acres of the Sandveld. 164 00:15:50,116 --> 00:15:53,519 It's the driest of all fynbos types. 165 00:15:53,519 --> 00:15:55,354 In some areas 166 00:15:55,354 --> 00:15:57,657 it manages to live within a meager average rainfall 167 00:15:57,657 --> 00:16:02,094 of less than 4 inches per year. 168 00:16:08,734 --> 00:16:11,237 So like all that live here, 169 00:16:11,237 --> 00:16:16,209 it has ingenious ways to survive the harshness of its habitat. 170 00:16:21,080 --> 00:16:24,217 As the Benguela current surges along the coast 171 00:16:24,217 --> 00:16:28,554 it draws frigid, deep water to the surface. 172 00:16:30,456 --> 00:16:34,660 When the prevailing winds blow onshore from farther out to sea, 173 00:16:34,660 --> 00:16:39,365 they carry warm air laden with moisture. 174 00:16:41,601 --> 00:16:45,271 The warm moisture collides with the cold surface water, 175 00:16:45,271 --> 00:16:48,140 giving rise to thick fog. 176 00:16:50,142 --> 00:16:53,679 Here the ocean feeds the land. 177 00:16:57,583 --> 00:17:02,455 Mists and winds are present for at least 120 nights of the year, 178 00:17:07,526 --> 00:17:11,030 And they are a gift to the resident plants. 179 00:17:17,303 --> 00:17:21,307 It's estimated that the moisture delivered by the Sandveld fog 180 00:17:21,307 --> 00:17:25,711 can be up to three times as much as the amount of its rainfall. 181 00:17:30,483 --> 00:17:33,252 This is where the scarcity of the land 182 00:17:33,252 --> 00:17:36,756 and the richness of the ocean meet. 183 00:17:39,158 --> 00:17:41,560 Because of this, the plants have developed 184 00:17:41,560 --> 00:17:45,164 to make the most of their main source of nourishment. 185 00:17:50,636 --> 00:17:53,272 The roots of many species in the habitat 186 00:17:53,272 --> 00:17:59,278 have numerous fine divisions just below the earth. 187 00:17:59,278 --> 00:18:04,016 These help maximize the surface area of the water intake. 188 00:18:10,256 --> 00:18:12,258 Within these conditions, 189 00:18:12,258 --> 00:18:16,028 an intriguing plant flourishes among the fynbos. 190 00:18:20,366 --> 00:18:23,536 The Euphorbia caput-madusae. 191 00:18:26,706 --> 00:18:29,775 So named because of its long tentacles 192 00:18:29,775 --> 00:18:33,179 emerging like the serpents on the head of the mythological 193 00:18:33,179 --> 00:18:35,081 Greek figure. 194 00:18:37,583 --> 00:18:40,152 It survives the unremitting habitat 195 00:18:40,152 --> 00:18:43,122 by remaining partly underground; 196 00:18:45,491 --> 00:18:50,663 leaving only its branches exposed. 197 00:18:50,663 --> 00:18:54,133 And there's a creature that has an unexpected relationship 198 00:18:54,133 --> 00:18:57,003 with these serpentine spires. 199 00:19:07,446 --> 00:19:09,615 The Rough-scaled girdled lizard 200 00:19:09,615 --> 00:19:13,285 is one of the few members of its kind that doesn't hide 201 00:19:13,285 --> 00:19:15,021 between the rocks. 202 00:19:16,756 --> 00:19:18,691 Its head and body 203 00:19:18,691 --> 00:19:22,962 are not flattened like many of the other girdled lizards; 204 00:19:26,098 --> 00:19:30,202 this reflects its preference for living away from boulders. 205 00:19:33,606 --> 00:19:35,541 It has another way to shelter 206 00:19:35,541 --> 00:19:38,377 from the Sandveld's elements and predators. 207 00:19:41,280 --> 00:19:43,182 The plant protects the reptiles 208 00:19:43,182 --> 00:19:47,253 in the way that rocks protect the other girdled lizards. 209 00:19:51,490 --> 00:19:53,626 When under threat from a predator, 210 00:19:53,626 --> 00:19:57,563 it can lose itself within the labyrinthine stems. 211 00:20:00,533 --> 00:20:05,404 And it provides another important service. 212 00:20:05,404 --> 00:20:08,340 Because invertebrates also shelter here; 213 00:20:08,340 --> 00:20:13,779 the lizards do not need to move far to get their food. 214 00:20:13,779 --> 00:20:18,651 They're gifted a complimentary room service for their tenure. 215 00:20:20,786 --> 00:20:22,755 But there aren't many euphorbias 216 00:20:22,755 --> 00:20:26,492 that can provide adequate protection. 217 00:20:26,492 --> 00:20:29,228 So competition for the ones that do 218 00:20:29,228 --> 00:20:30,529 is fierce. 219 00:20:35,367 --> 00:20:38,537 There's a hierarchy within the plant's residents - 220 00:20:38,537 --> 00:20:40,806 those that are lower down are condemned 221 00:20:40,806 --> 00:20:43,542 to the more exposed spires. 222 00:20:49,415 --> 00:20:52,284 The stronger lizards have their choice of the sections 223 00:20:52,284 --> 00:20:55,054 that are harder for predators to access. 224 00:21:05,464 --> 00:21:10,736 This is a necessary compromise, produced by the harsh habitat. 225 00:21:13,405 --> 00:21:17,343 The severity has caused an otherwise solitary lizard 226 00:21:17,343 --> 00:21:19,578 to become communal. 227 00:21:31,857 --> 00:21:34,326 Until the winter rains arrive 228 00:21:34,326 --> 00:21:38,063 the Sandveld relinquishes little for its residents. 229 00:21:44,470 --> 00:21:47,773 Springbok thrive in aridity. 230 00:21:51,410 --> 00:21:55,381 They're at home grazing amongst the scant dunes. 231 00:21:57,249 --> 00:22:00,252 By being able to digest young tender grass 232 00:22:00,252 --> 00:22:03,355 and a variety of shrubs and succulents, 233 00:22:03,355 --> 00:22:06,192 they're well provided for. 234 00:22:08,427 --> 00:22:12,097 But their greatest advantage for surviving these lands 235 00:22:12,097 --> 00:22:16,368 is their ability to go without fresh water. 236 00:22:18,137 --> 00:22:19,638 And this is the trick 237 00:22:19,638 --> 00:22:22,474 that also allows the Sandveld's largest resident 238 00:22:22,474 --> 00:22:24,777 to see the summer through. 239 00:22:29,815 --> 00:22:33,285 Cape eland can go for long periods 240 00:22:33,285 --> 00:22:35,454 without needing to drink. 241 00:22:39,525 --> 00:22:44,463 This nomadic family constantly moves through the Sandveld. 242 00:22:50,436 --> 00:22:54,673 Their broad habitat tolerance and extremely varied diet 243 00:22:54,673 --> 00:22:57,042 allow them to cope. 244 00:23:00,279 --> 00:23:04,116 But in order to survive, there needs to be enough moisture 245 00:23:04,116 --> 00:23:07,720 in the plants that they eat. 246 00:23:16,295 --> 00:23:18,130 Until the winter rains, 247 00:23:18,130 --> 00:23:22,434 this family must survive off the little that's on offer. 248 00:23:33,646 --> 00:23:38,284 While those on land endure the summer heat, 249 00:23:38,284 --> 00:23:41,754 the ocean continues to burst with life. 250 00:23:46,625 --> 00:23:49,495 As the Benguela current moves up the coast, 251 00:23:49,495 --> 00:23:52,398 the earth's rotation causes the surface water 252 00:23:52,398 --> 00:23:55,434 to deflect away from the shore. 253 00:24:00,339 --> 00:24:02,741 Coupled with the prevailing winds, 254 00:24:02,741 --> 00:24:06,278 this draws up cold, nutrient rich water 255 00:24:06,278 --> 00:24:10,582 from as deep as 1000 feet below. 256 00:24:19,291 --> 00:24:21,193 As the nutrient-rich water 257 00:24:21,193 --> 00:24:25,431 is pulled shallow enough to collide with the sun's rays, 258 00:24:25,431 --> 00:24:29,468 an explosion of life occurs. 259 00:24:34,640 --> 00:24:39,478 Forests of free-floating algae come into bloom. 260 00:24:43,115 --> 00:24:46,418 Attracting large schools of fish. 261 00:24:47,486 --> 00:24:49,121 These in turn 262 00:24:49,121 --> 00:24:51,290 bring the carnivores. 263 00:24:53,125 --> 00:24:58,130 Among them, hundreds and thousands of Cape fur seals 264 00:24:58,130 --> 00:25:02,301 and sea birds that arrive to feed. 265 00:25:02,301 --> 00:25:04,169 Pieces of drift kelp 266 00:25:04,169 --> 00:25:09,608 soak up the water's nourishment and wash to shore. 267 00:25:09,608 --> 00:25:12,478 As the winds whip and batter the sea, 268 00:25:12,478 --> 00:25:18,584 they whisk up a thick froth of organic matter. 269 00:25:18,584 --> 00:25:23,222 These water-borne clouds are rich in biological material 270 00:25:23,222 --> 00:25:26,258 that feeds the intertidal zones. 271 00:25:28,761 --> 00:25:33,065 A constant influx of nutrients infiltrates the ocean border 272 00:25:33,065 --> 00:25:35,634 in many different forms. 273 00:25:47,413 --> 00:25:51,350 This draws some unexpected inland visitors out. 274 00:25:55,154 --> 00:25:56,822 Flamingos 275 00:25:56,822 --> 00:26:00,626 use their bill to filter through the surface of the water - 276 00:26:00,626 --> 00:26:04,196 this optimizes the nutrients they can extract. 277 00:26:07,332 --> 00:26:11,236 Adapted to function best across the still waters of a lake, 278 00:26:11,236 --> 00:26:14,573 this technique is considerably harder to practice 279 00:26:14,573 --> 00:26:17,009 on a moving wave. 280 00:26:20,813 --> 00:26:22,714 But they persevere 281 00:26:22,714 --> 00:26:26,485 in order to enjoy the banquet that the coastline offers. 282 00:26:28,153 --> 00:26:31,523 The intertidal zones are the portal 283 00:26:31,523 --> 00:26:34,526 between the Sandveld and the sea, 284 00:26:36,361 --> 00:26:39,631 and they are coursing with nutrients. 285 00:26:41,834 --> 00:26:46,104 Water constantly moves in and out of the rock pools 286 00:26:46,104 --> 00:26:48,574 with the tide. 287 00:26:50,542 --> 00:26:54,246 Flooded twice a day, the animals that exist here 288 00:26:54,246 --> 00:26:57,483 must be able to live in two worlds. 289 00:27:01,553 --> 00:27:06,558 For a portion of their time they are completely submerged - 290 00:27:06,558 --> 00:27:10,696 for the rest they are entirely exposed. 291 00:27:27,045 --> 00:27:29,681 There are a number of species that thrive 292 00:27:29,681 --> 00:27:31,683 in this restless world, 293 00:27:33,452 --> 00:27:35,754 But the most successful one 294 00:27:35,754 --> 00:27:38,290 is not even from here. 295 00:27:40,692 --> 00:27:45,764 The Mediterranean mussel arrived in the seventies when its larvae 296 00:27:45,764 --> 00:27:49,101 were transported in the ballast water of visiting tankers 297 00:27:49,101 --> 00:27:50,302 from Europe. 298 00:27:52,104 --> 00:27:53,839 They have all but completely 299 00:27:53,839 --> 00:27:57,209 replaced the indigenous intertidal invertebrates, 300 00:27:57,209 --> 00:28:02,281 due to their speedier growth and reproduction rates. 301 00:28:04,583 --> 00:28:08,353 But their success has played a part in the recuperation 302 00:28:08,353 --> 00:28:11,456 of another Sandveld resident. 303 00:28:13,458 --> 00:28:15,727 African black oystercatchers 304 00:28:15,727 --> 00:28:20,465 are some of South Africa's most endangered coastal birds, 305 00:28:20,465 --> 00:28:23,969 but their numbers are on the rise. 306 00:28:29,174 --> 00:28:31,577 They've entirely adjusted their diet 307 00:28:31,577 --> 00:28:34,813 to include these superabundant aliens, 308 00:28:34,813 --> 00:28:39,017 and this has raised their reproductive success. 309 00:28:43,055 --> 00:28:46,224 To feed on the mussels, oystercatchers must wait 310 00:28:46,224 --> 00:28:51,063 until the mussel itself starts feeding. 311 00:28:51,063 --> 00:28:56,401 As the mollusks feed they filter water into their bodies - 312 00:28:56,401 --> 00:28:58,170 to do this 313 00:28:58,170 --> 00:29:01,073 they must loosen their otherwise tightly clamped valves. 314 00:29:02,307 --> 00:29:04,509 Here the bird takes its chance, 315 00:29:04,509 --> 00:29:08,714 striking quickly to remove the tasty treat. 316 00:29:15,554 --> 00:29:19,658 Mediterranean mussels now make up 90 percent 317 00:29:19,658 --> 00:29:23,128 of this endangered bird's diet. 318 00:29:26,098 --> 00:29:29,034 This has lead to a 30 percent increase 319 00:29:29,034 --> 00:29:35,340 in oystercatcher populations over the last 30 years. 320 00:29:39,578 --> 00:29:44,416 The Benguela current is the primary motor behind life here; 321 00:29:44,416 --> 00:29:50,355 it drives the scores of aquatic animals that live in the sea, 322 00:29:50,355 --> 00:29:54,626 whilst also providing moisture in the form of mist and fog 323 00:29:54,626 --> 00:29:59,564 for those that endure the Sandveld landscape. 324 00:30:07,639 --> 00:30:09,641 Winter brings rain; 325 00:30:27,292 --> 00:30:30,729 The parched land floods. 326 00:30:39,271 --> 00:30:43,108 The amount of rain relinquished increases to over 6 times 327 00:30:43,108 --> 00:30:45,110 the dry season average. 328 00:31:03,195 --> 00:31:07,232 And as the clouds clear and the spring sun comes out, 329 00:31:07,232 --> 00:31:11,069 the coast is injected with new life. 330 00:31:15,373 --> 00:31:20,078 The changing seasons bring transformation and relief. 331 00:31:22,614 --> 00:31:27,586 And this prompts the arrival of another, very peculiar resident 332 00:31:27,586 --> 00:31:30,222 of the Sandveld. 333 00:31:32,557 --> 00:31:37,195 The Mountain white spot caterpillar. 334 00:31:37,195 --> 00:31:40,198 Not much is known about these insects. 335 00:31:41,867 --> 00:31:43,702 As the rains ease, 336 00:31:43,702 --> 00:31:47,806 they emerge to devour the leaves of the Gonna bush. 337 00:31:49,541 --> 00:31:51,676 These are their host plant 338 00:31:51,676 --> 00:31:55,781 and they grow in abundance in the West Coast National Park. 339 00:31:59,551 --> 00:32:02,687 When the males eventually grow into adult moths, 340 00:32:02,687 --> 00:32:06,391 they will be handsome specimens with long wings 341 00:32:06,391 --> 00:32:10,262 but with imperfect mouths, so they cannot feed. 342 00:32:12,531 --> 00:32:14,166 And the females 343 00:32:14,166 --> 00:32:16,468 are just as unusual. 344 00:32:17,803 --> 00:32:20,572 She will remain wingless, 345 00:32:20,572 --> 00:32:23,508 her eyes, head and antennae 346 00:32:23,508 --> 00:32:25,443 will never emerge 347 00:32:25,443 --> 00:32:28,180 and her legs will stay far too small 348 00:32:28,180 --> 00:32:31,516 for any practical purposes. 349 00:32:31,516 --> 00:32:34,820 As a result, she never leaves her cocoon 350 00:32:34,820 --> 00:32:41,359 but merely waits for a male to seek her out and mate with her. 351 00:32:41,359 --> 00:32:45,597 She will lay about 100 eggs inside her cocoon 352 00:32:45,597 --> 00:32:48,700 and then die. 353 00:32:48,700 --> 00:32:51,837 The eggs will hide out inside of her shriveled body 354 00:32:51,837 --> 00:32:56,641 for the long, harsh summers and wet winters. 355 00:32:56,641 --> 00:32:59,611 Then they'll hatch next spring 356 00:32:59,611 --> 00:33:03,715 to consume these leaves and reproduce again, 357 00:33:03,715 --> 00:33:07,118 and so their cycle continues. 358 00:33:18,563 --> 00:33:21,666 This frantic activity is one of the first signs 359 00:33:21,666 --> 00:33:25,637 of winter drawing to a close and spring beginning. 360 00:33:29,674 --> 00:33:34,412 Male cape weavers begin building their nests. 361 00:33:39,517 --> 00:33:42,587 They're skillfully and delicately crafted. 362 00:33:50,762 --> 00:33:53,365 The males with the most appealing decor 363 00:33:53,365 --> 00:33:56,434 will be the most successful breeders. 364 00:34:05,543 --> 00:34:07,479 Once construction is complete, 365 00:34:07,479 --> 00:34:10,315 they will wait at the entrance to their homes 366 00:34:10,315 --> 00:34:13,285 and signal to any passing female, 367 00:34:14,619 --> 00:34:17,489 attempting to lure them in. 368 00:34:21,326 --> 00:34:25,297 They're highly polygamous. 369 00:34:25,297 --> 00:34:30,335 A well-built male territory can seduce up to seven mates, 370 00:34:30,335 --> 00:34:34,339 if the builder can successfully entice them inside. 371 00:34:37,309 --> 00:34:41,313 When the time is right, the female will wait inside here 372 00:34:41,313 --> 00:34:44,049 and incubate her eggs. 373 00:34:45,684 --> 00:34:48,720 But attracting a mate is harder than it seems - 374 00:34:48,720 --> 00:34:53,558 males must constantly jostle in the search for partners. 375 00:35:03,335 --> 00:35:06,671 The weavers aren't the only birds alive 376 00:35:06,671 --> 00:35:09,474 with the preparations of spring. 377 00:35:13,712 --> 00:35:17,482 Waders breed in Siberia during the summer, 378 00:35:18,717 --> 00:35:21,453 but as the black Arctic winter approaches 379 00:35:21,453 --> 00:35:24,189 they undertake a massive migration 380 00:35:24,789 --> 00:35:26,391 that ends here 381 00:35:26,391 --> 00:35:28,460 in time for spring. 382 00:35:35,400 --> 00:35:39,337 Langebaan lagoon inside the West Coast National Park 383 00:35:39,337 --> 00:35:44,175 hosts 55,000 waders every year. 384 00:35:51,416 --> 00:35:56,221 Their arrival ushers in a time of plenty for the Sandveld. 385 00:36:00,458 --> 00:36:03,595 They thrive off the large quantities of invertebrates 386 00:36:03,595 --> 00:36:05,497 inside the lagoon. 387 00:36:08,133 --> 00:36:13,738 Here alone they consume over 300,000 pounds annually. 388 00:36:17,375 --> 00:36:21,246 The waters become a hub of constant activity. 389 00:36:25,550 --> 00:36:29,487 These migratory birds have traveled across the globe 390 00:36:29,487 --> 00:36:32,323 to enjoy the Sandveld spring 391 00:36:32,323 --> 00:36:36,394 and all of the food that the lagoon relinquishes. 392 00:36:52,477 --> 00:36:56,681 The time has come for the seal pups to face the ocean. 393 00:37:04,689 --> 00:37:08,393 And some seem more prepared than others. 394 00:37:13,731 --> 00:37:18,636 They must be ready to fend for themselves in the cold Atlantic. 395 00:37:24,509 --> 00:37:27,078 But this is a challenge that their bodies 396 00:37:27,078 --> 00:37:28,746 are well equipped for. 397 00:37:33,785 --> 00:37:35,553 Once underwater 398 00:37:35,553 --> 00:37:39,224 the pups are superb aquatic acrobats. 399 00:37:52,170 --> 00:37:56,608 Their most important sensory organs are their eyes. 400 00:38:00,278 --> 00:38:02,680 These are lubricated by the salt water, 401 00:38:02,680 --> 00:38:07,185 allowing them to see better under the waves than on land. 402 00:38:20,131 --> 00:38:23,668 Their whiskers are sensitive to all vibrations 403 00:38:23,668 --> 00:38:26,638 and direct them to their prey. 404 00:38:35,280 --> 00:38:38,550 As the Benguela current continues to provide food 405 00:38:38,550 --> 00:38:42,220 for the schools of pelagic fish along the rocky shores, 406 00:38:42,220 --> 00:38:45,490 these youngsters have every opportunity to hunt 407 00:38:45,490 --> 00:38:49,160 and grow into adults. 408 00:38:59,637 --> 00:39:02,240 And by the time they're 5 years old 409 00:39:02,240 --> 00:39:04,475 they'll emerge on the Sandveld's shores 410 00:39:04,475 --> 00:39:07,579 to start the next generation. 411 00:39:25,563 --> 00:39:28,266 When the winter rains draw to a close 412 00:39:28,266 --> 00:39:30,802 and spring temperatures start to rise, 413 00:39:30,802 --> 00:39:34,105 the landscape completely transforms. 414 00:39:51,422 --> 00:39:55,627 For a brief window from August to September every year, 415 00:39:55,627 --> 00:39:59,097 the Sandveld comes alive. 416 00:40:14,545 --> 00:40:18,650 Life and color embroider the landscape. 417 00:40:35,767 --> 00:40:38,236 Flowers bring the insects, 418 00:40:38,236 --> 00:40:41,406 who provide an invaluable contribution. 419 00:40:46,110 --> 00:40:51,215 Their pollination efforts allow this floral kingdom to continue. 420 00:40:56,220 --> 00:40:58,890 The insects in turn 421 00:40:58,890 --> 00:41:00,491 bring the birds. 422 00:41:06,364 --> 00:41:11,002 Each year thousands of birds arrive to feast in the fields. 423 00:41:17,208 --> 00:41:19,410 And for the Sandveld's antelope, 424 00:41:19,410 --> 00:41:21,379 the arrival of the spring flowers 425 00:41:21,379 --> 00:41:25,616 also signals a brief period of plenty. 426 00:41:33,825 --> 00:41:38,629 But this brevity is compensated by its brilliance. 427 00:41:49,307 --> 00:41:51,743 The eland family has patiently awaited 428 00:41:51,743 --> 00:41:54,145 the spring transformation, 429 00:42:03,788 --> 00:42:09,427 And they're joined by others of their kind to reap the rewards. 430 00:42:16,100 --> 00:42:19,237 The flowers retain much rainwater 431 00:42:19,237 --> 00:42:21,406 and are a welcome snack. 432 00:42:25,543 --> 00:42:29,147 Bontebok will spend more than half of their day 433 00:42:29,147 --> 00:42:31,082 grazing the flowers. 434 00:42:35,586 --> 00:42:39,557 The Sandveld is the only place in the world where Bontebok 435 00:42:39,557 --> 00:42:41,492 occur naturally. 436 00:42:43,294 --> 00:42:47,365 And so they're adapted to eat a large variety of plants 437 00:42:47,365 --> 00:42:49,734 in this floral biome. 438 00:42:51,536 --> 00:42:54,472 During the long, dry summer 439 00:42:54,472 --> 00:42:56,307 Cape mountain zebra 440 00:42:56,307 --> 00:42:59,310 were forced to leave their preferred coastal grasses 441 00:42:59,310 --> 00:43:03,381 and move to shrubs and leaves as the land provided less. 442 00:43:06,551 --> 00:43:11,155 But now they flood back to the open pastures. 443 00:43:22,400 --> 00:43:27,205 The land provides generously for all who have patiently endured 444 00:43:27,205 --> 00:43:30,007 the long months of drought. 445 00:43:57,869 --> 00:44:02,340 The Sandveld spring is a time of respite. 446 00:44:05,510 --> 00:44:07,478 The landscape, 447 00:44:07,478 --> 00:44:11,182 which for the majority of the year is scant and unyielding, 448 00:44:11,182 --> 00:44:14,585 unfolds into a carpet of color 449 00:44:14,585 --> 00:44:17,522 and vitality. 450 00:44:19,790 --> 00:44:21,626 This is a welcome reward 451 00:44:21,626 --> 00:44:24,595 for all who have endured the scorching summers 452 00:44:24,595 --> 00:44:27,398 and harsh winters. 453 00:44:29,634 --> 00:44:34,639 But the ocean is the true backbone of all who live here. 454 00:44:36,607 --> 00:44:39,810 When little rain is provided for the landlocked residents, 455 00:44:39,810 --> 00:44:43,180 it gives moisture in the form of fog. 456 00:44:48,419 --> 00:44:50,821 And for those that live in the sea, 457 00:44:50,821 --> 00:44:52,623 an abundance of resources 458 00:44:52,623 --> 00:44:56,460 ensure that it's always teeming with activity. 459 00:44:59,597 --> 00:45:02,700 The Sandveld exists as a delicate interplay 460 00:45:02,700 --> 00:45:05,336 between land and ocean. 461 00:45:09,540 --> 00:45:13,444 And this interrelationship is something that every resident 462 00:45:13,444 --> 00:45:15,746 from its smallest plants 463 00:45:15,746 --> 00:45:19,283 Quirkiest reptiles 464 00:45:19,283 --> 00:45:21,819 And most charismatic mammals, 465 00:45:21,819 --> 00:45:25,156 have all adapted to take advantage of. 466 00:45:27,625 --> 00:45:33,798 To live here is to live within two different worlds 467 00:45:33,798 --> 00:45:37,668 And the result is a habitat full of both the delicate 468 00:45:37,668 --> 00:45:39,437 and the dauntless... 469 00:45:41,739 --> 00:45:44,508 This is the Sandveld, 470 00:45:44,508 --> 00:45:47,511 the land of contrasts. 471 00:45:50,514 --> 00:46:00,491 ♪♪ 472 00:46:00,491 --> 00:46:05,463 ♪♪ 473 00:46:05,463 --> 00:46:14,472 ♪♪