1 00:00:06,240 --> 00:00:08,675 NARRATOR: The cloud mountains of South Africa 2 00:00:08,675 --> 00:00:15,082 contain natural enclaves of incredible beauty and diversity. 3 00:00:20,587 --> 00:00:23,156 A lost world. 4 00:00:23,156 --> 00:00:26,260 Swirling in silver mists. 5 00:00:26,260 --> 00:00:31,531 The majestic realm of the Rain Queen. 6 00:00:35,602 --> 00:00:40,507 Indigenous forests teem with life. 7 00:00:43,443 --> 00:00:46,813 Giant prehistoric plants are a window 8 00:00:46,813 --> 00:00:50,117 into the time of dinosaurs. 9 00:00:51,184 --> 00:00:53,520 This is one of the last strongholds 10 00:00:53,520 --> 00:00:57,457 of the ancient mountain forests of Africa. 11 00:01:01,728 --> 00:01:04,631 ♪ ♪ 12 00:01:22,349 --> 00:01:26,920 The mighty Drakensberg Mountains. 13 00:01:26,920 --> 00:01:29,556 250 miles of jagged peaks 14 00:01:29,556 --> 00:01:34,194 extending along the entire eastern side of South Africa. 15 00:01:55,282 --> 00:01:58,251 They separate the arid heart of the country 16 00:01:58,251 --> 00:02:01,254 from the moist air of the Indian Ocean. 17 00:02:07,694 --> 00:02:11,264 In the very northern reaches of the range are the Wolkberg 18 00:02:11,264 --> 00:02:13,467 or cloud mountains, 19 00:02:13,467 --> 00:02:18,672 so named because they are often blanketed in fog. 20 00:02:21,308 --> 00:02:25,212 A diverse landscape of grassy covered summits 21 00:02:25,212 --> 00:02:30,650 and ravines cloaked in mountain forest. 22 00:02:30,650 --> 00:02:35,422 One of the rarest types of forest in the world. 23 00:02:37,924 --> 00:02:41,428 And across this ancient landscape, 24 00:02:41,428 --> 00:02:44,831 three clever species of primates are adapting to the challenges 25 00:02:44,831 --> 00:02:49,770 and opportunities found in these gardens in the clouds. 26 00:02:54,841 --> 00:02:56,576 It is summer in the Wolkberg 27 00:02:56,576 --> 00:03:01,515 and a troop of vervet monkeys are in search of breakfast. 28 00:03:04,317 --> 00:03:06,753 Vervets are found throughout southern Africa. 29 00:03:09,990 --> 00:03:11,691 Rarely seen out in the open, 30 00:03:11,691 --> 00:03:16,596 they seldom leave the shelter of the trees. 31 00:03:16,596 --> 00:03:19,866 They live in large families sometimes numbering 32 00:03:19,866 --> 00:03:21,735 as many as 70 individuals. 33 00:03:27,040 --> 00:03:30,744 Both males and females live according 34 00:03:30,744 --> 00:03:32,045 to a strict pecking order, 35 00:03:32,045 --> 00:03:35,549 which is often aggressively enforced. 36 00:03:37,451 --> 00:03:42,389 But there is no need for aggression today, however. 37 00:03:42,389 --> 00:03:47,961 It's December, mid-summer, and many of their favorite trees 38 00:03:47,961 --> 00:03:50,230 are in fruit. 39 00:03:54,301 --> 00:03:57,404 The troop is on the move across its territory. 40 00:04:00,373 --> 00:04:02,776 The monkeys are heading 41 00:04:02,776 --> 00:04:05,912 to the extraordinary Modjadji cycad forest, 42 00:04:05,912 --> 00:04:09,616 which is also found in these mountains. 43 00:04:15,522 --> 00:04:17,624 This contains the largest collection 44 00:04:17,624 --> 00:04:21,661 of a single cycad species anywhere on earth. 45 00:04:23,096 --> 00:04:27,601 Cycads are living fossils and evolved 46 00:04:27,601 --> 00:04:30,770 before dinosaurs roamed the earth. 47 00:04:32,706 --> 00:04:37,110 During the Jurassic, some 180 million years ago, 48 00:04:37,110 --> 00:04:42,516 cycads were one of the most common plant types. 49 00:04:42,516 --> 00:04:45,352 These forests not only have an ancient history, 50 00:04:45,352 --> 00:04:49,756 each tree grows slowly and is long lived. 51 00:04:53,059 --> 00:04:57,564 Some are more than 1,000 years old. 52 00:04:57,564 --> 00:04:59,633 This forest has grown here for millennia, 53 00:04:59,633 --> 00:05:04,871 but now it is threatened by an invasion of exotic trees. 54 00:05:07,107 --> 00:05:09,809 Exotic forestry plantations now surround 55 00:05:09,809 --> 00:05:12,546 these natural outposts. 56 00:05:15,115 --> 00:05:17,384 During summer, 57 00:05:17,384 --> 00:05:19,553 when the ancient forest is in fruit, 58 00:05:19,553 --> 00:05:22,389 vervets have learned to visit every day 59 00:05:22,389 --> 00:05:25,358 to gorge on the giant cones. 60 00:05:30,430 --> 00:05:33,166 Another monkey is also making the most 61 00:05:33,166 --> 00:05:34,768 of the summer fruits 62 00:05:34,768 --> 00:05:37,370 in the enchanted mountain forests of this range. 63 00:05:39,539 --> 00:05:42,475 Samangos are close relatives of vervets 64 00:05:42,475 --> 00:05:45,745 but are even more reliant on these forests. 65 00:05:50,684 --> 00:05:55,755 They are the only exclusive forest species in the region. 66 00:06:01,094 --> 00:06:02,896 Thick fur guards against the chill, 67 00:06:02,896 --> 00:06:06,433 and their characteristic white eyebrows keep rain 68 00:06:06,433 --> 00:06:08,568 out of their eyes. 69 00:06:10,904 --> 00:06:13,807 A long tail helps with balance. 70 00:06:21,147 --> 00:06:23,683 Living 65 feet above the ground 71 00:06:23,683 --> 00:06:26,052 in these threatened mountain forests, 72 00:06:26,052 --> 00:06:29,389 every day is a balancing act. 73 00:06:38,932 --> 00:06:43,536 Summer in the Wolkberg means food is plentiful. 74 00:06:43,536 --> 00:06:48,642 But it also brings rain. 75 00:06:48,642 --> 00:06:52,178 The clouds that blanket these mountains are born 76 00:06:52,178 --> 00:06:55,181 310 miles to the east. 77 00:06:55,181 --> 00:06:58,018 Easterly winds move in 78 00:06:58,018 --> 00:07:03,556 over the coast from the warm waters of the Indian Ocean. 79 00:07:03,556 --> 00:07:06,826 This moist air moving inland hits the Wolkberg. 80 00:07:08,528 --> 00:07:12,098 Rising, it cools and condenses into clouds 81 00:07:12,098 --> 00:07:16,503 and ultimately falls as rain. 82 00:07:18,738 --> 00:07:24,277 This is the kingdom of the Rain Queen. 83 00:07:24,277 --> 00:07:28,114 Local people believe that their tribal monarch 84 00:07:28,114 --> 00:07:31,217 is able to control the rain. 85 00:07:31,217 --> 00:07:35,689 Her powers are widely revered. 86 00:07:43,063 --> 00:07:47,100 During summer, the open slopes of the cloud mountains 87 00:07:47,100 --> 00:07:49,869 are regularly drenched, 88 00:07:49,869 --> 00:07:55,008 creating perfect growing conditions for grasses. 89 00:07:56,543 --> 00:08:00,613 More than 50 species thrive on these open plains, 90 00:08:00,613 --> 00:08:05,752 adapted to the well-drained, nutrient-poor soil. 91 00:08:11,224 --> 00:08:13,760 There are not enough nutrients in these soils, 92 00:08:13,760 --> 00:08:18,498 so bushes and trees struggle to survive on these open slopes. 93 00:08:22,969 --> 00:08:26,673 Plants here are also exposed to seasonal fires, 94 00:08:26,673 --> 00:08:31,044 so forests can only survive in the wet ravines. 95 00:08:35,782 --> 00:08:39,319 The resulting mix of forest and grass 96 00:08:39,319 --> 00:08:42,522 is critical for a number of species. 97 00:08:44,858 --> 00:08:49,796 Chacma baboons are the largest monkeys in the region. 98 00:08:52,766 --> 00:08:57,937 Large males can weigh more than 110 pounds. 99 00:08:57,937 --> 00:09:02,242 They are highly social and, like vervets, 100 00:09:02,242 --> 00:09:05,779 their family life is strictly organized. 101 00:09:05,779 --> 00:09:10,383 A dominant male is in charge. 102 00:09:10,383 --> 00:09:12,952 He heads the troop and gets first dibs 103 00:09:12,952 --> 00:09:16,089 on any food on offer. 104 00:09:16,089 --> 00:09:20,760 He is experienced and knows all the best feeding spots. 105 00:09:22,829 --> 00:09:28,401 Female society is also organized. 106 00:09:28,401 --> 00:09:31,070 Females inherit their rank from their mothers, 107 00:09:31,070 --> 00:09:32,705 while for males, 108 00:09:32,705 --> 00:09:36,376 dominance is constantly changing. 109 00:09:36,376 --> 00:09:39,379 This troop is foraging through the grass, 110 00:09:39,379 --> 00:09:42,882 looking for underground bulbs and tubers. 111 00:09:44,083 --> 00:09:47,420 Baboons are well adapted to survive in open grasslands 112 00:09:47,420 --> 00:09:50,857 and they divide their time between grassy areas 113 00:09:50,857 --> 00:09:53,693 and the surrounding forests. 114 00:10:06,372 --> 00:10:10,210 A host of other species also make its home 115 00:10:10,210 --> 00:10:13,179 in the open grassy plains. 116 00:10:20,854 --> 00:10:25,191 Rocky outcrops are prime habitats for snakes 117 00:10:25,191 --> 00:10:27,994 such as this berg adder. 118 00:10:29,429 --> 00:10:33,700 The chilly evening has slowed its metabolism. 119 00:10:33,700 --> 00:10:36,469 Like all cold-blooded reptiles, 120 00:10:36,469 --> 00:10:40,306 it must warm up before it can get moving. 121 00:10:40,306 --> 00:10:46,145 So it's recharging itself by sunbathing. 122 00:10:46,145 --> 00:10:49,115 But it is a balancing act. 123 00:10:49,115 --> 00:10:54,921 Sunny surfaces such as these are exposed to predatory raptors. 124 00:10:57,457 --> 00:11:00,059 Adders are part of the viper family 125 00:11:00,059 --> 00:11:02,996 that have long, hinged fangs to inject venom. 126 00:11:02,996 --> 00:11:08,801 And when they feel threatened, they let you know. 127 00:11:10,470 --> 00:11:12,338 They resort to hissing loudly 128 00:11:12,338 --> 00:11:15,909 and puffing themselves up in threat. 129 00:11:19,078 --> 00:11:22,215 The triangular-shaped head allows room 130 00:11:22,215 --> 00:11:27,153 for large venom glands located behind the upper jaw. 131 00:11:30,823 --> 00:11:32,325 They are ambush predators, 132 00:11:32,325 --> 00:11:36,496 lying in wait for prey such as frogs, rodents, and lizards 133 00:11:36,496 --> 00:11:38,464 on these rocky islands 134 00:11:38,464 --> 00:11:43,403 in the sea of grass. 135 00:11:43,403 --> 00:11:47,106 But this one is not yet warm enough to hunt. 136 00:11:51,811 --> 00:11:54,280 Rocky outcrops are not the only breaks 137 00:11:54,280 --> 00:11:56,249 in the uniform grasslands. 138 00:11:58,551 --> 00:12:02,121 Small seeps and streams crisscross these slopes 139 00:12:02,121 --> 00:12:04,557 that are home to a number of plants and animals 140 00:12:04,557 --> 00:12:07,226 not found elsewhere. 141 00:12:13,999 --> 00:12:19,272 The entire Wolkberg forms a giant water catchment. 142 00:12:21,808 --> 00:12:23,943 The mountains act like a sponge, 143 00:12:23,943 --> 00:12:27,513 retaining water and slowly releasing it 144 00:12:27,513 --> 00:12:28,881 into myriad streams, 145 00:12:28,881 --> 00:12:31,017 which are the birthplace of the rivers 146 00:12:31,017 --> 00:12:35,755 that will ultimately carry this water back to the ocean. 147 00:12:46,966 --> 00:12:53,339 Once the stream is formed, it burbles downhill, 148 00:12:53,339 --> 00:12:58,845 cutting into the topsoil until it reaches bedrock. 149 00:12:58,845 --> 00:13:03,583 This abundance of water brings life. 150 00:13:03,583 --> 00:13:06,986 Mosses thrive on the moist banks. 151 00:13:38,217 --> 00:13:40,319 Algae coats the rocks, 152 00:13:40,319 --> 00:13:43,256 fed by nutrients dissolved in the water. 153 00:13:46,659 --> 00:13:48,961 The larvae of net-winged midges 154 00:13:48,961 --> 00:13:51,864 cling to the smooth, rocky surface. 155 00:13:55,568 --> 00:14:00,440 Blackfly larvae filter algae from the water. 156 00:14:11,517 --> 00:14:13,419 It's a precarious existence. 157 00:14:13,419 --> 00:14:18,391 Plants and animals are constantly blasted by water. 158 00:14:23,996 --> 00:14:26,332 Floods can wash both algae and invertebrates 159 00:14:26,332 --> 00:14:30,703 from the rocks and, during extreme dry conditions, 160 00:14:30,703 --> 00:14:33,973 little streams can run dry. 161 00:14:42,248 --> 00:14:47,186 Mountain wagtails hunt bugs along the banks. 162 00:14:47,186 --> 00:14:50,957 Breeding pairs can hold territories 163 00:14:50,957 --> 00:14:55,928 along streams such as this for life. 164 00:15:01,167 --> 00:15:04,403 They defend their boundaries against intruders. 165 00:15:10,042 --> 00:15:14,046 In this, two wagtails are better than one 166 00:15:14,046 --> 00:15:17,583 and pairs that share territories gain significantly more food 167 00:15:17,583 --> 00:15:20,153 than if they live alone. 168 00:15:28,060 --> 00:15:32,365 Mountain wagtails are the longest lived of all wagtails 169 00:15:32,365 --> 00:15:36,068 and can survive longer than 12 years. 170 00:15:38,037 --> 00:15:40,206 Wagtails get their name from their habit 171 00:15:40,206 --> 00:15:42,108 of flicking their tails repeatedly. 172 00:15:44,510 --> 00:15:47,547 It is thought that this deters predators by telling them 173 00:15:47,547 --> 00:15:51,484 that the wagtail is aware of its surroundings and any danger. 174 00:16:06,365 --> 00:16:09,402 As the stream flows into the mountain forests, 175 00:16:09,402 --> 00:16:12,205 life changes in the water. 176 00:16:24,283 --> 00:16:26,219 Less sunlight hits the surface, 177 00:16:26,219 --> 00:16:29,355 and so less algae grows on the rocks. 178 00:16:32,825 --> 00:16:35,595 The food chain is now fueled by falling leaves, 179 00:16:35,595 --> 00:16:41,567 rather than growing plants photosynthesizing in the water. 180 00:16:41,567 --> 00:16:45,071 And a different suite of animals patrols the shallow waters 181 00:16:45,071 --> 00:16:49,008 specially adapted to consume fallen leaves. 182 00:16:51,143 --> 00:16:54,280 Minnows patrol deeper pools. 183 00:16:56,816 --> 00:17:01,153 The shadowy habitat is also perfect for frogs. 184 00:17:01,153 --> 00:17:06,492 Nearly all frogs must return to water in order to breed. 185 00:17:12,131 --> 00:17:15,134 This male Queckett's river frog has attached himself 186 00:17:15,134 --> 00:17:18,037 to his partner's back to mate. 187 00:17:19,705 --> 00:17:22,875 His specially thickened thumbs enable him to keep hold 188 00:17:22,875 --> 00:17:27,446 of her slippery skin. 189 00:17:27,446 --> 00:17:29,682 He's not letting go. 190 00:17:29,682 --> 00:17:34,587 When she's ready, the female will lay hundreds of eggs. 191 00:17:34,587 --> 00:17:39,225 This is costly, and so the females are much larger 192 00:17:39,225 --> 00:17:44,597 than the males, due to the reproductive effort required. 193 00:17:44,597 --> 00:17:46,332 With her partner aboard, 194 00:17:46,332 --> 00:17:50,903 the female searches for a safe place to lay her eggs. 195 00:17:50,903 --> 00:17:54,206 The main stream contains many predators 196 00:17:54,206 --> 00:17:57,543 that will eat her eggs and tadpoles when they hatch. 197 00:17:57,543 --> 00:18:01,881 So she's looking for a small pool away from the danger. 198 00:18:01,881 --> 00:18:08,688 Males have no say, they must just hang on. 199 00:18:08,688 --> 00:18:12,258 His only role is to fertilize the eggs once laid 200 00:18:12,258 --> 00:18:17,229 and prevent interlopers from displacing him. 201 00:18:30,576 --> 00:18:34,380 A single male tries to muscle in on the action. 202 00:18:44,523 --> 00:18:45,558 He's persistent, 203 00:18:45,558 --> 00:18:48,627 doing all he can to split the courting couple. 204 00:18:52,264 --> 00:18:56,302 But she's happy with her chosen partner 205 00:18:56,302 --> 00:18:58,637 and the single male is left out in the cold. 206 00:19:03,242 --> 00:19:04,810 Put in his place, he heads off 207 00:19:04,810 --> 00:19:07,680 to find a more accommodating female. 208 00:19:18,290 --> 00:19:22,561 The streams merge to form bigger and bigger rivers. 209 00:19:23,796 --> 00:19:27,366 These gather energy, cutting deep into the landscape 210 00:19:27,366 --> 00:19:31,637 as they flow downhill. 211 00:19:33,472 --> 00:19:37,443 Where rocky outcrops resist the erosive power of the water, 212 00:19:37,443 --> 00:19:40,279 waterfalls form. 213 00:20:17,750 --> 00:20:21,520 A natal green snake is hunting along the edge of the river. 214 00:20:28,828 --> 00:20:33,332 While they resemble deadly green mambas, they are harmless. 215 00:20:40,406 --> 00:20:41,307 Active during the day, 216 00:20:41,307 --> 00:20:45,377 he's searching the shallows for frogs. 217 00:20:57,022 --> 00:20:59,525 Snakes are surprisingly good swimmers, 218 00:20:59,525 --> 00:21:04,530 but currents in the steep mountain streams are strong. 219 00:21:04,530 --> 00:21:09,268 If he's misjudged the water, he risks being washed downstream. 220 00:21:14,607 --> 00:21:18,511 The rocks are wet and slippery, and he battles to gain traction. 221 00:21:41,600 --> 00:21:43,469 ♪ ♪ 222 00:22:15,134 --> 00:22:17,469 He's made it. 223 00:22:28,781 --> 00:22:31,150 The rivers flowing through this landscape 224 00:22:31,150 --> 00:22:33,586 provide an abundance of water, 225 00:22:33,586 --> 00:22:37,623 the lifeblood of its ancient forests. 226 00:22:49,835 --> 00:22:51,637 (birds singing) 227 00:22:55,541 --> 00:22:58,010 Entering Africa's mountain forests 228 00:22:58,010 --> 00:23:01,547 is like going back in time. 229 00:23:01,547 --> 00:23:06,785 Many ancient trees thrive on the abundance of water. 230 00:23:09,121 --> 00:23:13,058 Across the Wolkberg, rainfall is supplemented 231 00:23:13,058 --> 00:23:16,595 by mist rolling over the landscape. 232 00:23:20,833 --> 00:23:24,603 Drops of moisture form on everything it touches. 233 00:23:30,976 --> 00:23:32,645 With sufficient water, 234 00:23:32,645 --> 00:23:36,649 forest giants tower above the ground. 235 00:23:39,985 --> 00:23:44,657 These forests are sustained by water and light. 236 00:23:50,195 --> 00:23:51,797 Here it's every tree for itself 237 00:23:51,797 --> 00:23:55,200 as they strive to raise their leaves high 238 00:23:55,200 --> 00:23:58,570 above their neighbors to gather sunlight. 239 00:24:03,242 --> 00:24:05,077 Leaves act like solar panels, 240 00:24:05,077 --> 00:24:09,615 capturing light energy so it can be converted into food 241 00:24:09,615 --> 00:24:12,618 so the plants can grow, 242 00:24:12,618 --> 00:24:16,021 ultimately feeding the entire forest. 243 00:24:19,591 --> 00:24:23,562 Below the canopy, the forest is dark and moist, 244 00:24:23,562 --> 00:24:25,931 shaded from above. 245 00:24:27,833 --> 00:24:30,836 A thick layer of plicanthus shrubs survives 246 00:24:30,836 --> 00:24:32,971 in the shadows. 247 00:24:38,811 --> 00:24:44,583 The forest is not uniform, but a mosaic of patches. 248 00:24:44,583 --> 00:24:46,652 Young trees struggle to gain a foothold 249 00:24:46,652 --> 00:24:49,154 on the dark forest floor. 250 00:24:49,154 --> 00:24:52,324 Sometimes it's simply down to being in the right place 251 00:24:52,324 --> 00:24:54,660 at the right time. 252 00:24:58,230 --> 00:25:02,634 Eventually, even the mightiest trees fall. 253 00:25:02,634 --> 00:25:05,304 This creates gaps allowing light to penetrate 254 00:25:05,304 --> 00:25:08,507 into the lower reaches of the forest. 255 00:25:11,343 --> 00:25:14,613 And in these gaps, new, up-and-coming trees 256 00:25:14,613 --> 00:25:19,017 get a precious chance to grow. 257 00:25:22,321 --> 00:25:25,090 Birds and other creatures prefer the mix of light 258 00:25:25,090 --> 00:25:28,060 and shade found in these gaps. 259 00:25:32,931 --> 00:25:36,735 A Wolkberg dwarf chameleon is relishing the sunlight. 260 00:25:42,674 --> 00:25:46,011 Insects too are drawn by the warming rays. 261 00:25:50,883 --> 00:25:54,019 The chameleons are careful in the open areas, 262 00:25:54,019 --> 00:25:58,090 wary of bird predators who can attack without warning. 263 00:26:02,861 --> 00:26:05,764 Contrary to popular belief, chameleons change color 264 00:26:05,764 --> 00:26:07,900 primarily to communicate with each other 265 00:26:07,900 --> 00:26:12,104 rather than match their background. 266 00:26:13,872 --> 00:26:16,108 They rely more on their characteristic gait 267 00:26:16,108 --> 00:26:20,012 for camouflage, mimicking swaying branches and leaves, 268 00:26:20,012 --> 00:26:20,879 thereby avoiding detection 269 00:26:20,879 --> 00:26:24,850 by both their predators and their prey. 270 00:26:28,921 --> 00:26:34,126 Chameleons are not able to lap from pools of water. 271 00:26:34,126 --> 00:26:38,730 They can only drink from droplets on leaves and branches. 272 00:26:51,743 --> 00:26:55,013 Like all reptiles, chameleons are cold-blooded 273 00:26:55,013 --> 00:26:57,349 and sunlight provides the warmth they need 274 00:26:57,349 --> 00:27:00,118 to fuel their metabolism. 275 00:27:06,024 --> 00:27:09,161 Sunlight is so precious in these forests 276 00:27:09,161 --> 00:27:11,864 that some plants are ruthless in their pursuit 277 00:27:11,864 --> 00:27:14,032 of sufficient light to grow. 278 00:27:15,434 --> 00:27:18,103 While most forest trees invest heavily in reaching 279 00:27:18,103 --> 00:27:21,106 for the light by building strong trunks, 280 00:27:21,106 --> 00:27:24,176 there are some species that cheat the system. 281 00:27:27,045 --> 00:27:30,015 Strangler figs parasitize other trees, 282 00:27:30,015 --> 00:27:34,686 using them as scaffolding to carry their leaves aloft. 283 00:27:36,722 --> 00:27:39,925 Eventually, once the host has served its purpose, 284 00:27:39,925 --> 00:27:43,228 the strangler slowly suffocates it, 285 00:27:43,228 --> 00:27:47,132 conveniently eliminating the competition in the process. 286 00:27:51,370 --> 00:27:53,472 The gnarled shape of the strangler's trunk 287 00:27:53,472 --> 00:27:55,507 traps leaf litter and water, 288 00:27:55,507 --> 00:27:59,077 creating a microcosm all of its own. 289 00:28:04,082 --> 00:28:06,485 Epiphytic plants grow in the cup-like folds 290 00:28:06,485 --> 00:28:09,087 of the strangler fig. 291 00:28:09,087 --> 00:28:12,291 Unlike the parasitic fig, these do not harm the tree 292 00:28:12,291 --> 00:28:16,028 and only live on its surface, using the tree's cracks 293 00:28:16,028 --> 00:28:20,732 and crevices to reach up into the sunlight. 294 00:28:23,335 --> 00:28:28,507 Another opportunistic plant crisscrosses the forest. 295 00:28:28,507 --> 00:28:30,976 Lianas root themselves in the ground 296 00:28:30,976 --> 00:28:33,845 but use established trees to climb into the light 297 00:28:33,845 --> 00:28:37,482 of the forest canopy rather than investing heavily 298 00:28:37,482 --> 00:28:39,918 in their own trunks. 299 00:28:41,820 --> 00:28:44,957 Affected trees grow more slowly 300 00:28:44,957 --> 00:28:47,826 and have lower reproductive success. 301 00:28:53,532 --> 00:28:57,069 Lianas form forest highways for a number of species, 302 00:28:57,069 --> 00:29:03,008 enabling them to cross the open spaces between trees. 303 00:29:03,008 --> 00:29:05,177 While this is good for many species of animals, 304 00:29:05,177 --> 00:29:10,148 for the trees, it allows parasites and herbivores 305 00:29:10,148 --> 00:29:13,885 to access the canopy. 306 00:29:13,885 --> 00:29:18,824 Trees that remain free of lianas have a terrific advantage. 307 00:29:24,062 --> 00:29:27,099 For the Wolkberg dwarf chameleon, 308 00:29:27,099 --> 00:29:29,534 streams and rivers are impassable barriers 309 00:29:29,534 --> 00:29:31,903 in the forest... 310 00:29:31,903 --> 00:29:36,041 unless the liana highway bridges the gap. 311 00:29:37,175 --> 00:29:41,113 This spiny liana links discreet forest patches, 312 00:29:41,113 --> 00:29:43,615 allowing small animals to cross the streams 313 00:29:43,615 --> 00:29:46,918 that thread through these forests. 314 00:29:50,322 --> 00:29:52,591 Wolkberg dwarf chameleons live only in the forests 315 00:29:52,591 --> 00:29:55,193 of this area, 316 00:29:55,193 --> 00:30:00,666 one of 17 dwarf chameleons unique to South Africa. 317 00:30:04,936 --> 00:30:09,808 He's made it to the other side, thanks to the liana bridge. 318 00:30:18,984 --> 00:30:24,356 Afromontane forests contain many species that occur nowhere else. 319 00:30:27,025 --> 00:30:29,895 Tragically, the surrounding landscape is ideal 320 00:30:29,895 --> 00:30:34,199 for forestry, and these forests have been destroyed 321 00:30:34,199 --> 00:30:37,369 to make room for exotic plantations. 322 00:30:45,110 --> 00:30:47,913 The Wolkberg's valleys are an important refuge 323 00:30:47,913 --> 00:30:50,549 for Africa's mountain forests, 324 00:30:50,549 --> 00:30:54,453 usually referred to as Afromontane forests. 325 00:30:54,453 --> 00:30:59,691 Only half a percent of South Africa is suitable 326 00:30:59,691 --> 00:31:01,993 for indigenous Afromontane forest. 327 00:31:04,129 --> 00:31:08,266 These are some of the last fragments in the country. 328 00:31:13,004 --> 00:31:15,974 The warming of the continent after the last ice age 329 00:31:15,974 --> 00:31:19,444 caused forests to recede drastically. 330 00:31:19,444 --> 00:31:25,417 And, more recently, what was left has been decimated 331 00:31:25,417 --> 00:31:28,086 by agriculture and forestry. 332 00:31:30,255 --> 00:31:32,724 They are surrounded by plantations 333 00:31:32,724 --> 00:31:36,128 of Australian eucalyptus and American and European pines, 334 00:31:36,128 --> 00:31:40,031 species exotic to this region. 335 00:31:42,300 --> 00:31:47,038 These plantations are uniform and biologically sterile... 336 00:31:49,174 --> 00:31:53,278 large areas with few native species of plant and animal 337 00:31:53,278 --> 00:31:58,984 compared to the rich diversity within the natural forests. 338 00:32:01,119 --> 00:32:06,191 Within the plantation, super trees tower above the canopy. 339 00:32:08,460 --> 00:32:13,999 This 105-year-old Sydney Gum stands 265 feet high 340 00:32:13,999 --> 00:32:16,568 and is believed to be the largest planted tree 341 00:32:16,568 --> 00:32:19,271 anywhere on earth. 342 00:32:35,220 --> 00:32:38,190 The Woodbush Forest Reserve to the north of the Wolkberg 343 00:32:38,190 --> 00:32:42,494 is the second largest continuous patch of indigenous forest 344 00:32:42,494 --> 00:32:45,363 in South Africa. 345 00:32:45,363 --> 00:32:50,468 Fed by the rain and mist that cover the mountains... 346 00:32:53,538 --> 00:32:57,475 it is an ideal habitat for a number of bird species 347 00:32:57,475 --> 00:33:00,979 including rare Cape parrots. 348 00:33:07,586 --> 00:33:13,391 They're looking for yellowwoods growing in the forest. 349 00:33:13,391 --> 00:33:18,396 The cones of these trees are an important source of food. 350 00:33:18,396 --> 00:33:21,833 While there is plenty of other food, 351 00:33:21,833 --> 00:33:24,236 a compound found only in these cones 352 00:33:24,236 --> 00:33:29,474 is particularly important to parrots. 353 00:33:29,474 --> 00:33:30,842 If they can't find enough, 354 00:33:30,842 --> 00:33:35,413 they rapidly lose condition and will eventually die. 355 00:33:46,758 --> 00:33:49,794 Samangos also enjoy yellowwood cones, 356 00:33:49,794 --> 00:33:53,498 but they are less particular. 357 00:33:53,498 --> 00:33:58,236 They eat fruit and seeds, flowers and even fungi. 358 00:34:00,405 --> 00:34:04,409 Leaves and insects also feature on the menu for protein. 359 00:34:07,178 --> 00:34:08,413 Samangos live in families 360 00:34:08,413 --> 00:34:13,218 of between 14 and 30 individuals consisting of one adult male 361 00:34:13,218 --> 00:34:16,054 and a number of females and young. 362 00:34:18,356 --> 00:34:21,826 Males leave the troop around six years old 363 00:34:21,826 --> 00:34:25,263 and either seek out a new family for themselves 364 00:34:25,263 --> 00:34:27,599 or join a bachelor troop. 365 00:34:29,901 --> 00:34:31,836 Within the indigenous forest, 366 00:34:31,836 --> 00:34:35,206 exotic oak trees from the Northern Hemisphere 367 00:34:35,206 --> 00:34:37,075 have gained a foothold. 368 00:34:38,677 --> 00:34:45,550 Samangos are clever opportunists and make the most of the acorns. 369 00:34:56,161 --> 00:35:00,231 On the other side of the forest, other opportunists 370 00:35:00,231 --> 00:35:03,501 are taking advantage of the seasonal windfall. 371 00:35:07,439 --> 00:35:11,509 During summer, the Modjadji cycads explode in cones. 372 00:35:16,381 --> 00:35:19,117 It's a feast not to be missed. 373 00:35:24,422 --> 00:35:28,259 For three months there's plenty of food for everyone 374 00:35:28,259 --> 00:35:31,329 and the monkeys make this a daily stop 375 00:35:31,329 --> 00:35:34,399 on their foraging trips through the forest. 376 00:35:44,642 --> 00:35:49,547 While cycads are inedible to humans and are often poisonous, 377 00:35:49,547 --> 00:35:53,551 the vervets devour the starchy seeds with impunity. 378 00:35:56,554 --> 00:36:00,158 They're not the only species relishing a forest feast. 379 00:36:03,862 --> 00:36:06,464 Crowned eagles patrol riparian forests 380 00:36:06,464 --> 00:36:11,669 along the river courses, hunting small mammals. 381 00:36:11,669 --> 00:36:15,573 They are the most powerful raptors in Africa. 382 00:36:17,275 --> 00:36:20,445 Capable of capturing prey weighing as much 383 00:36:20,445 --> 00:36:24,416 as 75 pounds, they can pluck a monkey out of the trees. 384 00:36:28,486 --> 00:36:32,323 Even though they are formidable hunters, 385 00:36:32,323 --> 00:36:37,595 their efforts are outdone by a much more lowly predator. 386 00:36:37,595 --> 00:36:43,568 In these forests, spiders are more prolific killers. 387 00:36:43,568 --> 00:36:47,505 Incredibly, the weight of butterflies eaten by spiders 388 00:36:47,505 --> 00:36:50,542 in a year in these forests is more than the weight 389 00:36:50,542 --> 00:36:54,913 of all the monkeys consumed by crowned eagles. 390 00:36:54,913 --> 00:36:57,449 Surrounded by forest giants, 391 00:36:57,449 --> 00:37:00,885 it is easy to overlook smaller species. 392 00:37:00,885 --> 00:37:03,221 (buzzing) 393 00:37:11,996 --> 00:37:15,700 Potter wasps collect mud for their nests. 394 00:37:26,911 --> 00:37:28,513 In the natural world, 395 00:37:28,513 --> 00:37:32,383 small creatures often have big impacts. 396 00:37:48,533 --> 00:37:51,803 Spiders have existed for 100 million years, 397 00:37:51,803 --> 00:37:56,674 during which time they've perfected the art of capture. 398 00:37:59,444 --> 00:38:03,548 Many create elaborate webs of silk. 399 00:38:05,750 --> 00:38:08,119 This is made from protein and spun into thread 400 00:38:08,119 --> 00:38:10,421 by their spinnerets. 401 00:38:22,567 --> 00:38:24,636 By weight, spider silk is one 402 00:38:24,636 --> 00:38:28,339 of the strongest substances on earth. 403 00:38:32,143 --> 00:38:36,548 Spiders are classified by the webs they spin. 404 00:38:39,017 --> 00:38:42,654 Tangle or cobwebs, funnel webs, sheet webs, 405 00:38:42,654 --> 00:38:45,490 and the largest of all, spiral orbs 406 00:38:45,490 --> 00:38:49,360 such as those spun by golden orb spiders. 407 00:38:54,933 --> 00:38:56,134 The webs are death traps 408 00:38:56,134 --> 00:38:59,470 for flying insects. 409 00:38:59,470 --> 00:39:03,608 Once they become entangled, there is usually no escape. 410 00:39:03,608 --> 00:39:07,045 And the spider is able to inject a lethal cocktail 411 00:39:07,045 --> 00:39:12,884 of venom to paralyze its victim, before wrapping it in silk 412 00:39:12,884 --> 00:39:15,453 to store for later. 413 00:39:18,957 --> 00:39:20,658 Another group of ancients 414 00:39:20,658 --> 00:39:23,861 inhabits one of the oldest forests on earth, 415 00:39:23,861 --> 00:39:27,899 a forest that has been rooted here for millennia. 416 00:39:31,035 --> 00:39:35,473 Giant modjadji cycad trees are the largest cycad species 417 00:39:35,473 --> 00:39:40,878 in the world, growing to over 40 feet in height. 418 00:39:48,019 --> 00:39:50,788 They are prehistoric looking. 419 00:39:50,788 --> 00:39:56,561 Their fruit looks like a giant pineapple. 420 00:39:59,697 --> 00:40:05,103 These are cones similar to pine cones, only much bigger-- 421 00:40:05,103 --> 00:40:10,675 weighing 75 pounds or more, the weight of a large monkey. 422 00:40:12,944 --> 00:40:15,546 There are male and female cones. 423 00:40:15,546 --> 00:40:20,885 Usually cone-bearing plants are wind pollinated, 424 00:40:20,885 --> 00:40:22,253 because cone-bearing plants, 425 00:40:22,253 --> 00:40:28,559 called gymnosperms, evolved before flowering plants. 426 00:40:28,559 --> 00:40:31,696 When flowers evolved, they enabled plants 427 00:40:31,696 --> 00:40:35,833 to attract animal pollinators, such as insects and birds. 428 00:40:37,268 --> 00:40:39,671 Cycads don't have colorful flowers, 429 00:40:39,671 --> 00:40:43,641 and yet many of them are, nonetheless, 430 00:40:43,641 --> 00:40:45,576 pollinated by insects. 431 00:40:47,578 --> 00:40:50,114 Researchers speculate that animal pollination 432 00:40:50,114 --> 00:40:53,251 may be older than we think because cycads were doing this 433 00:40:53,251 --> 00:40:56,988 before flowering plants evolved. 434 00:41:02,060 --> 00:41:04,796 (thunder) 435 00:41:04,796 --> 00:41:06,297 For generations, 436 00:41:06,297 --> 00:41:08,633 the Rain Queen of the Lobedu people 437 00:41:08,633 --> 00:41:11,636 has protected this ancient forest. 438 00:41:14,939 --> 00:41:16,207 Outside of Modjadji, 439 00:41:16,207 --> 00:41:20,311 cycads are one of the world's most endangered plant groups, 440 00:41:20,311 --> 00:41:24,048 threatened by habitat destruction 441 00:41:24,048 --> 00:41:26,918 and the exotic plant trade. 442 00:41:33,558 --> 00:41:35,893 With so much on offer in Modjadji, 443 00:41:35,893 --> 00:41:37,895 there's less pressure on the vervet family 444 00:41:37,895 --> 00:41:41,032 to search for food in the surrounding forests. 445 00:41:46,838 --> 00:41:50,174 There's also time for other important things, 446 00:41:50,174 --> 00:41:52,810 like feeding the little ones. 447 00:41:58,316 --> 00:42:02,186 Female vervets remain with their family for life. 448 00:42:02,186 --> 00:42:05,656 But when males reach maturity, 449 00:42:05,656 --> 00:42:07,925 they migrate to neighboring families, 450 00:42:07,925 --> 00:42:10,661 helping to broaden the gene pool. 451 00:42:29,280 --> 00:42:32,950 Grooming is important in building cohesion. 452 00:42:35,753 --> 00:42:39,724 High-ranking females receive the most grooming, 453 00:42:39,724 --> 00:42:44,162 usually by subordinate females to curry favor. 454 00:42:47,698 --> 00:42:52,136 Male grooming is less common and some males never groom. 455 00:42:56,107 --> 00:42:59,777 Male dominance relies on their prominent blue genitals 456 00:42:59,777 --> 00:43:01,979 and sizing each other up. 457 00:43:14,158 --> 00:43:15,359 But with so much to eat, 458 00:43:15,359 --> 00:43:20,965 the males seem more interested in food than showing off. 459 00:43:34,912 --> 00:43:38,149 For youngsters it's not so easy. 460 00:43:40,418 --> 00:43:42,353 They still need to learn how best to tackle 461 00:43:42,353 --> 00:43:43,855 the bountiful cones. 462 00:43:54,799 --> 00:43:59,170 But persistence does pay off eventually. 463 00:44:06,978 --> 00:44:11,182 The cycads of Modjadji only fruit once a year, 464 00:44:11,182 --> 00:44:13,251 but are a valuable resource, 465 00:44:13,251 --> 00:44:16,087 enabling these monkeys to overcome the challenges 466 00:44:16,087 --> 00:44:20,191 brought on by their ever-shrinking forest homes. 467 00:44:36,941 --> 00:44:39,377 The ancient plants and animals of the cloud mountains 468 00:44:39,377 --> 00:44:43,981 of South Africa have long captured people's imagination. 469 00:44:56,861 --> 00:44:59,864 It's a landscape defined by weather 470 00:44:59,864 --> 00:45:03,801 and threatened on all sides by invaders. 471 00:45:07,171 --> 00:45:11,275 Indigenous forest fragments survive against the odds... 472 00:45:17,915 --> 00:45:20,251 Providing homes for an incredible array 473 00:45:20,251 --> 00:45:22,987 of plants and animals. 474 00:45:32,563 --> 00:45:36,400 But these mountains are not only a vibrant sanctuary 475 00:45:36,400 --> 00:45:38,903 for life in the present. 476 00:45:40,972 --> 00:45:46,277 They also offer a fascinating window into our past. 477 00:46:03,094 --> 00:46:06,197 Captioned by Media Access Group at WGBH, access.wgbh.org