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I am in India with a 1913
Bradshaw's Handbook to Indian
Colonial and Foreign Travel.
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Published at the height
of the British Raj,
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my 100-year-old guidebook will lead
me on a spectacular railway
adventure
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00:00:19,600 --> 00:00:25,200
through a land of majestic mountains
and holy rivers where magnificent
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00:00:25,360 --> 00:00:29,040
beasts roam, and epic stories
are told.
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00:00:29,040 --> 00:00:33,600
I'll encounter maharajahs,
explore ornate palaces,
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00:00:33,600 --> 00:00:37,120
witness the technology
of modern India,
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00:00:37,120 --> 00:00:40,640
and ride some of the most
exhilarating trains in the world.
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00:00:41,960 --> 00:00:47,320
I'll discover how imperial railways
and the English language
inadvertently
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00:00:47,480 --> 00:00:53,400
spread ideas of independence among
hundreds of millions of Indians
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who today live in the largest
democracy in the world.
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The extensive empire,
says Bradshaw's,
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25 times the size of England
and Wales,
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situated between the mountains
of Afghanistan,
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Kashmir and Tibet to the north, the
Bay of Bengal and Siam to the east,
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the Indian Ocean on the south,
and the Arabian Sea and Persia
on the west.
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Extraordinarily, this vast area,
with its tens of millions of people,
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was governed by a private enterprise
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which also ran an opium monopoly,
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the East India Company, until
the bloodthirsty Indian Rebellion
of 1857.
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Then, at last, the British
Government grew exasperated
with the greed
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and mismanagement of the company,
and absorbed India into the British
Empire.
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My journey will take me past
the poppy fields,
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along the Ganges River,
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towards the seeds of independence
in Bengal.
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I begin in the state of Uttar
Pradesh at its historical capital
Lucknow,
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famously besieged during the
rebellion against British rule.
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From there, I will head east
to Ghazipur,
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once the centre of the opium
industry, and through the flat,
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fertile state of Bihar, to the great
Buddhist temple at Bodh Gaya.
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I'll cross into West Bengal,
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and gain traction in a railway plant
in Chittaranjan,
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before finishing in Kolkata,
former seat of the British Raj.
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Along the way, I'll learn about
19th-century drug dealing...
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The amount of opium almost made it
impossible for people to not be
addicts.
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..explore an enormous
locomotive factory...
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00:03:19,280 --> 00:03:23,200
You could run a perfectly decent
horse race in here.
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..discover how British cotton led
to conflict...
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They were flooding the markets
and making us lose our hand loom
industry...
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..and get a lesson in meditation.
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Focus all your mind...
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..on the tip of your nose.
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My first stop will be Lucknow which
Bradshaw's tells me is the old
capital of Awadh,
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a picturesque collection of domes,
pillars and spires.
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Here, a succession of nawabs
and kings reigned from 1716 until
the deposition of the last king
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in 1856, followed by the
Sepoy Revolt.
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A monarch deposed by a private
company!
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Little wonder that bloodshed
followed.
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Bradshaw travellers would have heard
of Lucknow,
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scene of exceptional British
military valour.
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But whether they understood the
causes and the consequences of the
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rebellion is more doubtful.
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Lucknow is known to have one of
India's loveliest stations
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built just after my Bradshaw's
Guide.
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This is the capital
of Uttar Pradesh.
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The city's impressive monuments
are unmistakably Islamic,
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dating back to the Mughal rule of
the nawabs and is now the centre of
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India's Shia Muslim community.
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Wide boulevards and manicured
gardens sit alongside teeming narrow
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backstreets.
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The bazaar is one of the oldest
and most popular places to shop.
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The colours in India are beautiful.
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Overwhelming,
particularly in the markets.
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The clothes, the shoes, the fruit,
the spices,
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it makes me feel really understated
in my attire.
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This city is famous for its cuisine,
and kebabs are a speciality.
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Hello.
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Oh, it's hot.
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Can I try it, please?
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The story goes that an old nawab
who'd lost his teeth,
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set a competition to see who could
make the softest kebabs,
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and it was made by a man who had
one hand,
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and one-handed in the local language
is tunday.
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So a man who had lost a hand made
a kebab for a man who'd lost his
teeth.
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Thank you very much.
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Served on a leaf.
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Wow.
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Mm, it's good.
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Thank you.
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Spicy, too. Very spicy.
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Today, Lucknow is a peaceful city
of around three million people.
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Hello. But in 1857, a full-scale
uprising spread across
northern India.
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These streets fell into the hands
of rebel sepoys,
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Indian troops recruited by the East
India Company,
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angry at religious insensitivity
displayed by British officers.
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The city's residency was
the headquarters of the British
Commissioner for
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the territory, Sir Henry Lawrence,
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and became the site of a bloody
five-month siege.
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The noble defence of Lucknow,
says Bradshaw's,
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is one of the most glorious
episodes.
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The Lucknow residency will always
remain a sacred memorial of English
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valour and self-sacrifice.
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These ruined walls speak of the
horrors endured by and the heroism
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displayed by the British.
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It's as though the whiff of gun
smoke was still in the air and,
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not mentioned by Bradshaw, the
stench of British atrocities too.
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In the preserved ruins
of the residency,
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I have arranged to meet history
professor Saleem Kidwai.
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Professor, why is there a rebellion
in the kingdom of Awadh in 1857?
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Um, because there was a rebellion
all over north India.
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Sepoys had already mutinied in
Meerut, they had taken Delhi.
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In Awadh, there was particularly
good reason because Awadh had a very
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harsh history at the hands of
the East India Company.
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When the kingdom was annexed in
1856, without any legitimate cause,
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they decided to remove the king in
conditions that were extremely
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humiliating. The city's pride
was hurt.
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And it led to violence.
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It led to violence.
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When this famous siege of Lucknow
begins, who is in the residency?
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It is the British residents
of Lucknow.
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It's people from close by who've
come here for refuge or safety.
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Their sons, loyal Indian soldiers,
there are schoolboys
and missionaries,
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and of course their families.
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And what sort of defence can they
mount from these buildings?
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It was all makeshift defence because
this wasn't meant to be a defensive
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structure. What was it like in here
on a daily basis during those five
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months? It was constant
bombardment, constant skirmishes.
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There was no full-scale assault.
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The rebels weren't prepared for it,
they did not have a commander,
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they did not have a plan.
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What they did was to constantly fire
from every direction into the
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residency. And the signs of this are
on the walls all around us.
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Absolutely, yes.
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Three months into the siege,
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the first attempt by British forces
under General Sir Henry Havelock
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to free their fellow countrymen
inside, failed.
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The siege continued for another two
months before a much larger force
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under Sir Colin Campbell managed
to evacuate the survivors.
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This was an action of great heroism.
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And was recognised as such by the
awarding of Victoria Crosses,
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the record for the largest number of
Victoria Crosses, 18 in one day,
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28 in one action, um,
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just shows you how seriously the
British Government took the defence
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of the siege of Lucknow and how
heroic they considered it.
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What were the casualties?
Large, unfortunately very large.
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Of the 3,000 people in here,
900 men, women,
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children and schoolboys survived.
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And many of them were in very poor
shape.
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With survivors rescued
from the residency,
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the British left Lucknow
in rebel hands.
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But Campbell and his forces returned
in March 1858 to take back the city
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and to punish the rebels.
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When the British retook Lucknow,
what are the consequences for
the city?
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Horrendous. Um, the British
were outraged.
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There were extremely exaggerated
stories about the rape
and molestation of British women.
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So, the British tied rebels to
cannons and blew them up.
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They identified as many as they
could find, and hung them publicly.
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They identified not just the rebels
but anyone who had helped
the rebels,
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confiscated their lands, they
mistreated places of religion.
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So, at all levels,
there was vengeance.
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What were the consequences for
India, of the rebellion of 1857?
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India became a full-scale colony.
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1857 clearly showed that the Indian
possessions were too valuable to be
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left to the East India Company,
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to the misrule of the board of
directors who were not controlled by
politicians.
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So Queen Victoria had to step in.
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Vestiges of the rich culture and
traditions of this part of India
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are in evidence all around me.
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The ornate Qaisar Bagh Palace
was built in 1850 by Wajid Ali Shah,
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the last nawab of Awadh.
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A much-loved ruler, he was a poet
and a great patron of the arts.
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I'd like to know more about
the cultural legacy of these royal
nawabs
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whose deposition caused such
a furore.
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In the palace grounds at the
prestigious Bhatkhande Music
Institute,
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they teach an ancient form of dance
that was popular at royal occasions.
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Hello, Dr Khare.
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Dr Ruchi Khare is an assistant
professor here.
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Dr Khare, what is the dance that you
perform and teach here?
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I perform kathak dance.
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Kathak dance is a very popular
classical dance style of northern
India.
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Kathak is all about storytelling.
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What is the connection between
kathak and the royal nawabs?
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The nawabs of the 19th century
were very culture-loving people.
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They sat on the throne of Lucknow.
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They promoted this art in
their regime,
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and they invited all the talented
kathak artists from nearby towns and
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places, and they kept them in their
court.
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Did the nawabs participate
in the dance?
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Yes. Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, he was
himself a kathak artist.
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He had trained under a dancer
in this court.
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Was kathak for the aristocracy,
or was it a popular thing?
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It started from the elite because
the king himself promoted it.
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But then, since it was very,
very entertaining,
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it became very popular
among the masses.
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And the people you teach now,
the students,
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will they go on to be kathak
performers?
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They want to pursue it as a career.
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There are different avenues.
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It can be teaching choreography,
stage performer,
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but the important thing is that they
are very passionate about dancing.
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I am not known for my sense of
rhythm but Dr Khare has bravely
offered to teach me a few steps.
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This side, this side.
This side.
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Turn from the side.
Ah, this side.
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I could see why professionals
train for years.
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I am bidding farewell to Lucknow
and continuing my journey east
to Ghazipur.
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PA: For the kind information of
passengers, train number...
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00:15:04,400 --> 00:15:08,480
Bradshaw's says that night
travelling saves time,
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00:15:08,480 --> 00:15:12,720
and is to be recommended especially
during the summer months.
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With the mercury bursting
the thermometer,
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I'm guessing that sleeper travel
is the better option.
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In truth, most people on these
sleepers go to bed in their day
clothes,
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00:15:40,640 --> 00:15:43,120
but I believe in maintaining
standards.
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Good evening.
Good evening. Do you speak English?
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Yes. I'm going to Ghazipur.
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00:15:48,640 --> 00:15:50,640
Where are you going?
I'm going to Varanasi.
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Varanasi, famous city on the Ganges.
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Very lovely. Well, I've got the top
bunk, I hope I don't disturb you.
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00:15:56,640 --> 00:15:59,400
Have a nice sleep.
Thank you. Goodnight to you.
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00:16:07,360 --> 00:16:12,120
Ever helpfully, my Bradshaw's tells
me first and second class passengers
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00:16:12,120 --> 00:16:15,480
will not be disturbed for tickets
at night.
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00:16:15,480 --> 00:16:22,720
Small packages and valuables should
be carefully disposed of at night
out of reach of an open window.
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Bradshaw's is my one valuable item,
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00:16:25,360 --> 00:16:30,360
that can go under my pillow
and no-one will find it.
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00:16:57,360 --> 00:17:02,400
The train swayed quite a lot so I
was not so much rocked to sleep as
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00:17:02,400 --> 00:17:07,280
shaken awake. But it was
air-conditioned and I do start
a bright new day
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00:17:07,280 --> 00:17:08,880
where I want to be.
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As I slept, we travelled around 200
miles across the plains of
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Uttar Pradesh to the state's far
eastern border.
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My next stop will be Ghazipur which
the guidebook tells me lies in a
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picturesque tract in the valley
of the Ganges.
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Opium, sugar, indigo and tobacco
are raised.
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In that little word, opium, casually
tossed into the sentence,
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lies unimaginable wealth,
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00:17:37,840 --> 00:17:41,520
indescribable human degradation,
and not one,
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00:17:41,520 --> 00:17:45,360
but two wars between Britain
and China.
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When you first arrive in Ghazipur,
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there really is only one place
to head.
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First glimpse of the famous Ganges
River, as Bradshaw's says,
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00:18:29,040 --> 00:18:32,160
the sacred Ganga, 1,500 miles long,
230
00:18:32,160 --> 00:18:36,480
which rises in two heads on the
south side of the Himalayas.
231
00:18:36,480 --> 00:18:40,240
I am moved to see it so tranquil
and majestic.
232
00:18:40,240 --> 00:18:43,680
And by the fact that, for Hindus,
it is a goddess,
233
00:18:43,680 --> 00:18:46,200
the embodiment of all holy waters.
234
00:18:46,200 --> 00:18:48,440
And all along its banks,
235
00:18:48,440 --> 00:18:53,560
the devout enter the river to cup
the deified liquid in their hands,
236
00:18:53,720 --> 00:18:57,520
and to give thanks to their
ancestors and to the gods.
237
00:19:01,320 --> 00:19:07,520
But this river also played an
essential role in a business
that was anything but holy.
238
00:19:07,640 --> 00:19:10,440
Hi. How lovely to see you.
239
00:19:10,440 --> 00:19:14,680
Utacha Chatterpajaya is an expert
on the opium trade.
240
00:19:16,040 --> 00:19:19,840
How does it come to be that
opium production becomes so prolific
241
00:19:19,840 --> 00:19:21,520
along the banks of the Ganges?
242
00:19:21,520 --> 00:19:23,960
You need the heat for the opium
to dry,
243
00:19:23,960 --> 00:19:28,280
and soil fertility along the banks
of the Ganges is great for growing
opium.
244
00:19:28,280 --> 00:19:33,040
How does the opium trade from
India to China get going under the
245
00:19:33,040 --> 00:19:39,360
East India Company? Opium was being
farmed in India before the British
get here, under the Mughal state.
246
00:19:39,520 --> 00:19:43,280
But, at that time, it's a smaller
amount of produce.
247
00:19:43,280 --> 00:19:46,840
But what the East India Company
really does is concentrate
the market.
248
00:19:46,840 --> 00:19:48,840
They join all the dots
along the river,
249
00:19:48,840 --> 00:19:51,720
get people to grow opium
next to each other,
250
00:19:51,720 --> 00:19:56,520
and they connect the production side
of the market all the way to private
251
00:19:56,520 --> 00:19:59,840
traders who are buying opium in
the docks in Calcutta,
252
00:19:59,840 --> 00:20:02,840
who then go on to sell it in
ports in China.
253
00:20:02,840 --> 00:20:05,640
It's the application of the
Industrial Revolution or of
capitalism,
254
00:20:05,640 --> 00:20:08,360
to opium, really. It's exactly what
it is, yes.
255
00:20:08,360 --> 00:20:11,440
And so the opium left the fields
around here,
256
00:20:11,440 --> 00:20:13,240
left the factories around here,
257
00:20:13,240 --> 00:20:17,880
and the Ganges River was the conduit
by which the opium left for China.
258
00:20:17,880 --> 00:20:22,080
The Ganges is exactly the reason why
the East India Company is able to
259
00:20:22,080 --> 00:20:24,360
connect all the little markets
along the way.
260
00:20:24,360 --> 00:20:27,000
And they really became very wealthy
on this, didn't they?
261
00:20:27,000 --> 00:20:31,960
Absolutely. The opium trade expands
through the 19th century into the
262
00:20:31,960 --> 00:20:34,280
early 20th, and in terms of revenue,
263
00:20:34,280 --> 00:20:38,760
if you add all the opium markets
that were existent in India,
264
00:20:38,760 --> 00:20:42,400
that's about 17% of the total money
being made in India at the time.
265
00:20:42,400 --> 00:20:45,960
What do you think was the impact
on the Chinese people of all
this opium?
266
00:20:45,960 --> 00:20:50,000
Politically, I think it was a huge
problem for the Chinese.
267
00:20:50,000 --> 00:20:52,800
Addiction was badly affecting
workers.
268
00:20:52,800 --> 00:20:56,480
The amount of opium that was pumped
into China almost made it impossible
269
00:20:56,480 --> 00:20:58,400
for people to not be addicts.
270
00:20:58,400 --> 00:21:00,920
China tried to exclude opium,
271
00:21:00,920 --> 00:21:06,680
but Britain was willing to go to war
to keep open its lucrative trade.
272
00:21:06,840 --> 00:21:10,600
Why did Britain and China fight two
so-called Opium Wars?
273
00:21:10,600 --> 00:21:12,680
For the control in the Chinese
market.
274
00:21:14,040 --> 00:21:17,520
China was producing goods which
the British wanted to buy.
275
00:21:17,520 --> 00:21:23,720
Primarily tea. Opium became one way
of crashing into the Chinese
economy.
276
00:21:23,920 --> 00:21:29,160
They used gunboats in Hong Kong
to humiliate the Chinese army
in the first
277
00:21:29,280 --> 00:21:31,080
Opium War, and then the second.
278
00:21:31,080 --> 00:21:35,720
And the treaties that were signed
following the ceasefires almost gave
279
00:21:35,720 --> 00:21:39,440
the British complete control
on ports in the interior trade
in China.
280
00:21:39,440 --> 00:21:43,320
So, the trade was that British
people drank tea out of porcelain,
281
00:21:43,320 --> 00:21:44,960
while the Chinese smoked opium.
282
00:21:44,960 --> 00:21:47,520
Absolutely, yes, I wouldn't have
said it better.
283
00:21:50,480 --> 00:21:53,640
Just a few minutes walk from
the Ganges in Ghazipur,
284
00:21:53,640 --> 00:21:58,000
this opium factory was opened by
the East India Company in 1820.
285
00:21:59,760 --> 00:22:02,800
Dry opium was brought here from
the surrounding fields,
286
00:22:02,800 --> 00:22:06,760
and to another factory in Patna
about 100 miles east.
287
00:22:06,760 --> 00:22:09,600
It was turned into cakes, and packed
into crates,
288
00:22:09,600 --> 00:22:11,280
to be transported upriver.
289
00:22:12,440 --> 00:22:16,920
Following pressure from a Quaker led
movement in Britain, in 1906,
290
00:22:16,920 --> 00:22:20,840
Parliament declared the trade
morally indefensible,
291
00:22:20,840 --> 00:22:22,760
and around ten years later,
it ended.
292
00:22:24,320 --> 00:22:28,720
From then, opium was processed only
for medicinal and scientific
purposes.
293
00:22:30,160 --> 00:22:34,680
Today, the opium and alkaloid works
covering 43 acres,
294
00:22:34,680 --> 00:22:38,520
is a vast enterprise employing 900
people.
295
00:22:38,520 --> 00:22:39,960
Hi. What a pleasure to meet you.
296
00:22:39,960 --> 00:22:43,840
You are welcome to Ghazipur factory,
opium factory.
297
00:22:43,840 --> 00:22:46,560
Mr K Valson is the works manager.
298
00:22:48,480 --> 00:22:51,360
It feels like we're surrounded
by historic buildings.
299
00:22:51,360 --> 00:22:53,840
These are the components of an opium
factory, are they?
300
00:22:53,840 --> 00:22:57,240
Yeah. You can see we have a very
nice water tank.
301
00:22:57,240 --> 00:22:59,440
This was built in 1906.
302
00:22:59,440 --> 00:23:03,840
And then the one that you see on
this side is the well.
303
00:23:04,880 --> 00:23:08,440
Still if you go near it, you'll find
a lot of water gushing in.
304
00:23:08,440 --> 00:23:10,560
It is basically Ganga water.
305
00:23:10,560 --> 00:23:12,280
From the Ganges. From the Ganges.
306
00:23:12,280 --> 00:23:16,400
We need water for the process,
for cleaning, washing, mixing,
307
00:23:16,400 --> 00:23:20,760
modulating. Now, I saw on your sign,
Government opium factory.
308
00:23:20,760 --> 00:23:24,960
So, it's owned by the Government,
is it? Opium is a restricted item.
309
00:23:24,960 --> 00:23:28,880
Only the Government of India,
through our Ministry of Finance,
310
00:23:28,880 --> 00:23:30,360
can operate.
311
00:23:30,360 --> 00:23:34,920
It can buy, it can sell, it can
manufacture, it can import,
it can export.
312
00:23:34,920 --> 00:23:38,920
When I arrived, I came through very
solid gates, there were armed
guards.
313
00:23:38,920 --> 00:23:41,000
Yes. You have to be very careful
of this stuff.
314
00:23:41,000 --> 00:23:43,120
It would have a huge value on
the illicit market.
315
00:23:43,120 --> 00:23:44,520
Yes, very valuable.
316
00:23:44,520 --> 00:23:46,960
We ensure that nothing goes out
of this place.
317
00:23:46,960 --> 00:23:50,560
Now, I don't think you're going to
let me inside the manufacturing
318
00:23:50,560 --> 00:23:53,800
process. Obviously not, for security
reasons,
319
00:23:53,800 --> 00:23:55,840
I'm not permitted to allow you to go
inside.
320
00:23:55,840 --> 00:23:57,760
But tell me what goes on in there.
321
00:23:57,760 --> 00:24:01,160
Earlier, it was fully manual,
but it is highly mechanised now.
322
00:24:01,160 --> 00:24:04,000
We have legally licensed farmers.
323
00:24:04,000 --> 00:24:06,520
They will cultivate opium.
They hand it over to us.
324
00:24:06,520 --> 00:24:10,120
We seal it in the presence of
representatives, and we bring
it here.
325
00:24:10,120 --> 00:24:12,400
We wash it with water, we dry it,
326
00:24:12,400 --> 00:24:16,440
then concentrate it for the
manufacturing of opium alkaloids.
327
00:24:16,440 --> 00:24:19,000
And what is the opium used for these
days?
328
00:24:19,000 --> 00:24:23,120
Basically, we prepare only codeine
phosphate which is used as a cough
329
00:24:23,120 --> 00:24:27,640
syrup. In 1943, they started
an alkaloid plant also.
330
00:24:27,640 --> 00:24:31,080
They are manufacturing now morphine,
codeine is there.
331
00:24:31,080 --> 00:24:34,320
So, you're making an important
contribution to modern medicine
here.
332
00:24:34,320 --> 00:24:37,680
Yes, obviously, because there is no
alternate to this.
333
00:24:39,000 --> 00:24:42,080
An alternative, even if it is there,
it is very highly costly also.
334
00:24:42,080 --> 00:24:45,080
I didn't think I'd be saying this,
but congratulations to you, sir,
335
00:24:45,080 --> 00:24:48,120
on managing an opium factory.
Yeah, thank you, sir.
336
00:25:05,640 --> 00:25:10,240
Today, I am picking up my journey
at Mughal Sarai Junction
337
00:25:10,240 --> 00:25:13,000
but there's a snag.
338
00:25:13,000 --> 00:25:15,960
One of the hazards of travelling by
train in India, let it be said,
339
00:25:15,960 --> 00:25:20,040
is that they do run late, and I mean
very late.
340
00:25:20,040 --> 00:25:22,840
The column on the right-hand side
shows you the delays that are
341
00:25:22,840 --> 00:25:27,360
anticipated. There's one delayed
by six hours and 30 minutes.
342
00:25:27,360 --> 00:25:31,840
And by the way, these tend to be
optimistic estimates.
343
00:25:31,840 --> 00:25:33,880
I mean, it is perfectly
understandable.
344
00:25:33,880 --> 00:25:37,560
The trains wend thousands of
kilometres across the subcontinent.
345
00:25:37,560 --> 00:25:40,160
But it does make planning
very difficult.
346
00:25:46,160 --> 00:25:50,720
At least there are useful ways
to pass the time while you wait.
347
00:25:50,720 --> 00:25:54,160
The competition between open-air
barbers is fierce.
348
00:25:54,160 --> 00:25:55,680
It's a cut-throat business!
349
00:26:08,200 --> 00:26:11,360
In my experience, mobile phone
coverage in India is pretty good,
350
00:26:11,360 --> 00:26:13,640
and Wi-Fi is readily available.
351
00:26:13,640 --> 00:26:19,600
And here at stations they have
sockets so that you can charge up
your equipment.
352
00:26:19,760 --> 00:26:23,440
Plug in with a round
two-pin adapter,
353
00:26:23,440 --> 00:26:26,280
connect, switch on...
354
00:26:26,280 --> 00:26:27,800
PING!
355
00:26:27,800 --> 00:26:29,480
Ah, the ping.
356
00:26:32,320 --> 00:26:35,200
With my train showing no signs
of arriving,
357
00:26:35,200 --> 00:26:37,240
I'll seek out some extra reading
material.
358
00:26:38,560 --> 00:26:40,800
AH Wheeler, book stall
and newsagent,
359
00:26:40,800 --> 00:26:46,160
a feature of most Indian railway
stations, founded in 1877.
360
00:26:46,280 --> 00:26:47,680
In the 1880s,
361
00:26:47,680 --> 00:26:51,880
a young Rudyard Kipling who needed
to pay his passage back to England
362
00:26:51,880 --> 00:26:56,000
approached Wheeler's proposing that
they publish cheap throwaway reading
363
00:26:56,000 --> 00:26:58,200
material for railway passengers.
364
00:26:58,200 --> 00:27:00,800
Published as the Indian Railway
Library,
365
00:27:00,800 --> 00:27:03,440
it featured Kipling's short stories.
366
00:27:03,440 --> 00:27:08,040
It made him his money, and more
importantly, it made his name.
367
00:27:09,920 --> 00:27:13,520
A beautiful display of books
and magazines.
368
00:27:13,520 --> 00:27:14,520
Hello, sir.
369
00:27:15,520 --> 00:27:17,680
What's that thing there?
370
00:27:17,680 --> 00:27:19,640
The Indian Railway Timetable.
371
00:27:19,640 --> 00:27:21,440
The Indian timetable. Wow.
372
00:27:22,600 --> 00:27:24,240
How much is that? 60 rupees.
373
00:27:24,240 --> 00:27:26,280
60 rupees, I'll take that.
374
00:27:27,440 --> 00:27:28,440
Thank you.
375
00:27:30,280 --> 00:27:32,760
That's very kind of you, thank
you, have a good day.
376
00:27:34,000 --> 00:27:35,760
Beautifully illustrated.
377
00:27:35,760 --> 00:27:37,680
The Indian Railway Timetable.
378
00:27:37,680 --> 00:27:41,240
Like a Kipling short story, it
should be taken with a pinch of
salt!
379
00:27:43,480 --> 00:27:47,400
Finally, four hours after it was
due, my train arrives.
380
00:28:02,520 --> 00:28:02,600
This is the Grand Chord line,
381
00:28:02,600 --> 00:28:05,560
This is the Grand Chord line,
382
00:28:05,560 --> 00:28:08,280
one of two parts of the main Delhi
to Kolkata route.
383
00:28:09,960 --> 00:28:15,280
Trains on the first line opened by
the East Indian Railway in 1866,
384
00:28:15,440 --> 00:28:19,560
stopped more frequently, in order
to maximise revenue.
385
00:28:19,560 --> 00:28:23,120
As that line became busier,
a faster route was needed,
386
00:28:23,120 --> 00:28:26,000
and this one cut the journey
by 50 miles.
387
00:28:27,160 --> 00:28:32,760
Rama Rao Annavarapu worked on the
Grand Chord line for 34 years.
388
00:28:34,040 --> 00:28:37,680
Rama Rao, I'm Michael.
Oh, nice meeting you.
389
00:28:37,680 --> 00:28:38,960
How do you do?
390
00:28:38,960 --> 00:28:44,280
My Bradshaw's tells me that the
Grand Chord line was constructed in
391
00:28:44,440 --> 00:28:49,160
1907. Why was it so important to
construct a more direct line between
392
00:28:49,160 --> 00:28:52,240
Kolkata and Delhi? As the traffic
went up,
393
00:28:52,240 --> 00:28:57,280
they found it was becoming more and
more expensive to pass this traffic
394
00:28:57,400 --> 00:28:59,000
over the longer route.
395
00:28:59,000 --> 00:29:01,840
And, more importantly,
they discovered coal.
396
00:29:01,840 --> 00:29:04,720
And all this coal had to be
transported to Delhi.
397
00:29:04,720 --> 00:29:10,040
So, the stimulus for the Grand Chord
line was actually freight rather
than passenger. Very, very much.
398
00:29:10,200 --> 00:29:12,920
Freight was given much more
importance in the Grand Chord.
399
00:29:12,920 --> 00:29:16,960
It's only later that we started
running more and more passenger
trains.
400
00:29:16,960 --> 00:29:19,040
Were you from a railway family?
401
00:29:19,040 --> 00:29:20,840
My father, he was station master.
402
00:29:20,840 --> 00:29:23,520
And how did you find your career
in the railways?
403
00:29:23,520 --> 00:29:24,880
Wonderful. Yes.
404
00:29:24,880 --> 00:29:27,560
I would say. The work is very
satisfying.
405
00:29:27,560 --> 00:29:31,520
I was in operations, and operations
always give you challenges.
406
00:29:31,520 --> 00:29:35,360
And living conditions are good.
We have lived in various places.
407
00:29:35,360 --> 00:29:38,480
I had occasion to see the whole
country,
408
00:29:38,480 --> 00:29:41,200
even my children have grown up
and seen down my seen so many
places.
409
00:29:41,200 --> 00:29:46,720
And you railway men and women,
are you a family, a brotherhood?
410
00:29:46,920 --> 00:29:50,040
I don't think there's any
brotherhood that is closer than
the railways.
411
00:29:50,040 --> 00:29:54,240
Really? Yes.
We find wherever you are,
412
00:29:54,240 --> 00:29:56,800
the railway men always come
to your help.
413
00:30:15,080 --> 00:30:17,520
My next stop will be Bodh Gaya.
414
00:30:17,520 --> 00:30:22,560
The book tells me the town is
celebrated as the cradle of Buddhism
415
00:30:22,560 --> 00:30:22,640
of which religion the great temple
at Bodh Gaya,
416
00:30:22,640 --> 00:30:25,640
of which religion the great temple
at Bodh Gaya,
417
00:30:25,640 --> 00:30:30,640
seven miles from the railway
station, is now one of the chief
remnants.
418
00:30:30,840 --> 00:30:37,600
By the side of the Mahabodhi,
grew the Bodhi tree under
which Gautama,
419
00:30:37,760 --> 00:30:42,040
Prince Siddhartha attained the title
of the Buddha.
420
00:30:42,040 --> 00:30:45,960
I confess I don't understand every
word of that but I shall go to the
421
00:30:45,960 --> 00:30:48,120
temple to seek enlightenment.
422
00:30:57,960 --> 00:31:03,840
Bodh Gaya is the holiest pilgrimage
site for the world's half a billion
Buddhists.
423
00:31:09,120 --> 00:31:14,160
A temple was first built here in the
third century BC by the Indian
424
00:31:14,280 --> 00:31:16,640
emperor Asoka.
425
00:31:16,640 --> 00:31:21,040
This stunning Mahabodhi Temple
is around 1,500 years old.
426
00:31:32,280 --> 00:31:34,840
I'm greeted by the chief monk.
427
00:31:34,840 --> 00:31:38,040
Welcome to Mahabodhi temple.
Thank you so much.
428
00:31:40,680 --> 00:31:46,800
And my guide will be the Venerable
Deepam Chartree who looks after
visitors from all over theworld.
429
00:31:49,960 --> 00:31:52,960
The temple is absolutely wonderful.
430
00:31:52,960 --> 00:31:57,400
Who was the Buddha? Buddha was a
prince who was born in Nepal.
431
00:31:57,400 --> 00:32:02,840
He travelled across from Nepal to
Bodh Gaya and he spent almost six
years in
432
00:32:03,000 --> 00:32:07,040
this very place crossing his legs
in a meditation posture.
433
00:32:07,040 --> 00:32:11,040
To find out the ultimate truth
of suffering or the ultimate...
434
00:32:13,240 --> 00:32:15,560
..things of human life.
435
00:32:15,560 --> 00:32:17,680
How did he do that, what was his
method?
436
00:32:17,680 --> 00:32:22,400
Meditation was the first and very
important method and meanwhile,
437
00:32:22,400 --> 00:32:25,160
he sacrificed so many things.
438
00:32:25,160 --> 00:32:26,520
Self-denial? Yes.
439
00:32:26,520 --> 00:32:29,080
Fasting was the biggest sacrifice.
440
00:32:29,080 --> 00:32:33,240
And what is the importance of the
Bodhi tree?
441
00:32:33,240 --> 00:32:38,520
The Bodhi tree that you can see here
is almost fourth-generation
Bodhi tree.
442
00:32:38,680 --> 00:32:43,360
The Buddha seated beneath the tree
and achieved enlightenment,
443
00:32:43,360 --> 00:32:47,360
the ultimate happiness that every
people deserve.
444
00:32:47,360 --> 00:32:49,360
How long have you been a monk?
445
00:32:49,360 --> 00:32:53,120
13 years. What is your daily life
as a monk?
446
00:32:53,120 --> 00:32:58,160
I have one routine that I have
to follow from morning four o'clock
until
447
00:32:58,320 --> 00:33:02,440
ten o'clock evening, just to take
care of the temple, the people,
448
00:33:02,440 --> 00:33:04,280
those who come here to worship.
449
00:33:04,280 --> 00:33:08,080
I have morning meditation where
I can concentrate my mind.
450
00:33:08,080 --> 00:33:09,880
Each day, one hour a day.
451
00:33:09,880 --> 00:33:12,240
But whatever I do,
452
00:33:12,240 --> 00:33:14,840
I am very much a peaceful minded
person.
453
00:33:19,320 --> 00:33:24,960
Beside the sacred Bodhi tree
Venerable Deepam has agreed to teach
me the basics
454
00:33:25,080 --> 00:33:26,640
of meditation.
455
00:33:37,920 --> 00:33:39,440
One more.
456
00:33:49,480 --> 00:33:51,600
I find it very hard to sit
cross-legged.
457
00:33:51,600 --> 00:33:55,600
I used to do it as a child,
I've lost the ability.
458
00:33:55,600 --> 00:33:59,000
All Buddhists have to be able to do
it, don't they? Yeah.
459
00:33:59,000 --> 00:34:03,120
If you are sitting in this posture
you can focus the feeling between
460
00:34:03,120 --> 00:34:04,560
your land and body.
461
00:34:04,560 --> 00:34:07,200
How do you begin to concentrate,
to meditate?
462
00:34:07,200 --> 00:34:12,160
What do you do? A good teacher from
Myanmar, from Burma,
463
00:34:12,160 --> 00:34:17,240
taught me a very simplest process
of concentrating mind.
464
00:34:17,360 --> 00:34:20,840
And I really practice every day.
465
00:34:22,240 --> 00:34:28,240
When I shut my eyes I firstly, I
find, I try to relax my whole body.
466
00:34:28,360 --> 00:34:30,280
I try to stop thinking.
467
00:34:31,960 --> 00:34:37,040
If you focus all your mind on tip of
your nose
468
00:34:37,040 --> 00:34:42,640
and observe the flow of air inside
and outside,
469
00:34:42,760 --> 00:34:47,240
breathing in and out very slowly,
470
00:34:47,240 --> 00:34:49,760
full concentration.
471
00:34:49,760 --> 00:34:52,440
That is called Vipassana meditation.
472
00:34:59,000 --> 00:35:04,320
I enjoyed that. And actually, it's
quite noisy here but even so,
473
00:35:04,480 --> 00:35:08,680
I found I was going inside myself,
concentrating on the tip of my nose,
474
00:35:08,680 --> 00:35:10,640
even though I couldn't see it.
475
00:35:10,640 --> 00:35:15,240
CHANTING
476
00:35:23,240 --> 00:35:26,680
Venerable Deepam, is this the most
special place there is for
a Buddhist?
477
00:35:26,680 --> 00:35:30,360
Yes, there is, this is the holiest
place for all Buddhists.
478
00:35:30,360 --> 00:35:34,840
It is considered that every
Buddhist should visit
once in a lifetime.
479
00:35:52,280 --> 00:35:53,680
Hello. Hi.
480
00:35:53,680 --> 00:35:55,160
May I ask where you are visiting
from?
481
00:35:55,160 --> 00:35:59,720
I'm from Singapore. What is the
significance to you as a Buddhist
of this place?
482
00:35:59,720 --> 00:36:02,560
This is considered
the epicentre of Buddhism.
483
00:36:02,560 --> 00:36:06,000
It's where Lord Buddha
achieved enlightenment.
484
00:36:06,000 --> 00:36:08,680
How would you describe enlightenment
to me?
485
00:36:08,680 --> 00:36:13,680
It just means that you have
awakened, gone beyond the material
world.
486
00:36:13,840 --> 00:36:15,880
Have you been able to achieve
that yourself?
487
00:36:15,880 --> 00:36:17,440
Of course not!
488
00:36:17,440 --> 00:36:19,520
So the average Buddhist
doesn't attain it?
489
00:36:19,520 --> 00:36:23,680
We are all striving to reach
that point.
490
00:36:23,680 --> 00:36:25,560
How long will you spend here?
491
00:36:25,560 --> 00:36:28,360
A month. You come every day
to the temple?
492
00:36:28,360 --> 00:36:33,160
I do. I've actually made friends
with the various wandering monks.
493
00:36:33,160 --> 00:36:35,640
In fact, we became friends
on Facebook.
494
00:36:35,640 --> 00:36:40,120
When you go back to Singapore, what
effect will it have had on you
to come here?
495
00:36:40,120 --> 00:36:44,560
Well, I think I'll be
a much nicer person than I was.
496
00:36:44,560 --> 00:36:48,200
So nice to talk to you.
Thanks so much. Bye-bye.
497
00:37:07,960 --> 00:37:11,560
The next part of my journey
will take me 200 miles,
498
00:37:11,560 --> 00:37:14,400
south-east from Bodh Gaya
into West Bengal.
499
00:37:15,840 --> 00:37:21,520
I'll stop at the railway town of
Chittaranjan before finishing
in Kolkata,
500
00:37:21,680 --> 00:37:25,520
India's oldest port on the banks
of the Hooghly River.
501
00:37:36,600 --> 00:37:41,200
Bradshaw's written in 1913 remarks
that the Indian railway system is
just
502
00:37:41,200 --> 00:37:46,280
under 32,000 miles in extent,
growing by about 1,000 miles every
year,
503
00:37:46,440 --> 00:37:51,680
390 million passengers and
71 million tonnes of goods.
504
00:37:51,840 --> 00:37:56,400
It represented the most enormous
captive export market for British
505
00:37:56,400 --> 00:37:58,920
manufacturers of locomotives.
506
00:37:58,920 --> 00:38:02,520
Since independence, the railways
have gone on modernising.
507
00:38:02,520 --> 00:38:07,560
I wonder how that great demand has
been met since the tie with Britain
was broken?
508
00:38:07,560 --> 00:38:07,640
I'm getting off at Chittaranjan
to find out.
509
00:38:07,640 --> 00:38:10,560
I'm getting off at Chittaranjan
to find out.
510
00:38:27,720 --> 00:38:32,760
First impressions, Chittaranjan has
a much bigger station than I would
have expected for somewhere
511
00:38:32,760 --> 00:38:34,200
I regard as pretty remote.
512
00:38:34,200 --> 00:38:38,840
It is one of those cities that
exists only because of the railways.
513
00:38:45,200 --> 00:38:49,240
One of the largest locomotive works
in India is situated here.
514
00:38:50,440 --> 00:38:56,400
I'm surprised to find it green and
peaceful with fresh smelling air.
515
00:38:56,560 --> 00:39:00,760
Chittaranjan, like a number of
railway locomotive works,
516
00:39:00,760 --> 00:39:03,120
decided to build its own village,
517
00:39:03,120 --> 00:39:05,880
well, town and very beautiful
it is too.
518
00:39:05,880 --> 00:39:08,320
Set amongst woods with its
own lakes,
519
00:39:08,320 --> 00:39:13,720
so the main works are over there in
the distance and then all around
here is the accommodation.
520
00:39:13,920 --> 00:39:17,920
People came from neighbouring
Bangladesh and all over India to be
employed
521
00:39:17,920 --> 00:39:21,080
here and then each of those probably
has four members of the family,
522
00:39:21,080 --> 00:39:24,120
so it turns out to be a really
sizeable community.
523
00:39:29,480 --> 00:39:35,400
The vast site covers 4,500 acres
and includes schools,
524
00:39:35,560 --> 00:39:39,480
leisure facilities and even
a children's train ride.
525
00:39:42,320 --> 00:39:47,240
The factory began production in 1950
on the day that India became a
526
00:39:47,240 --> 00:39:51,640
republic. And now employs a
workforce of 11,000 people.
527
00:39:58,600 --> 00:40:00,960
This workshop is enormous.
528
00:40:00,960 --> 00:40:04,160
It is the largest at Chittaranjan.
529
00:40:04,160 --> 00:40:08,160
980 metres long.
That is very nearly a kilometre.
530
00:40:08,160 --> 00:40:11,280
You could run a perfectly decent
horse race in here.
531
00:40:18,360 --> 00:40:22,800
When imperial engineers developed
India's rail network from
the mid-19th
532
00:40:22,800 --> 00:40:26,680
century onwards, the locomotives had
to be imported from Britain.
533
00:40:27,720 --> 00:40:31,440
Workshops were established in India
to maintain them.
534
00:40:31,440 --> 00:40:36,440
But Indian initiatives to build
engines at home were stifled
535
00:40:36,440 --> 00:40:39,760
so as to protect British industry.
536
00:40:39,760 --> 00:40:44,200
One of the things that India
resented about the British Raj
was our insistence
537
00:40:44,200 --> 00:40:47,720
on exporting goods from the
United Kingdom to India,
538
00:40:47,720 --> 00:40:52,560
denying India the opportunity to
develop its own industrial base.
539
00:40:52,560 --> 00:40:55,680
That was particularly true perhaps
of railways.
540
00:40:55,680 --> 00:40:57,760
So on independence,
541
00:40:57,760 --> 00:41:01,120
India decided that it really needed
to put that situation right.
542
00:41:01,120 --> 00:41:04,480
These works began in the 1950s,
making steam engines,
543
00:41:04,480 --> 00:41:08,880
before moving to diesel and electric
models in the 1960s.
544
00:41:08,880 --> 00:41:10,560
Hello.
How are you?
545
00:41:12,160 --> 00:41:15,760
The mainstay of this factory
for quite a long time has been
546
00:41:15,760 --> 00:41:20,240
6,000 horsepower locomotives
and this is the starting point.
547
00:41:20,240 --> 00:41:23,840
This is 6,000 horsepower, yeah?
This is a chassis.
548
00:41:23,840 --> 00:41:25,760
This is the chassis.
549
00:41:25,760 --> 00:41:29,120
This is where it all begins.
Yes, yes.
550
00:41:30,760 --> 00:41:33,200
Which is what you've done over there
already.
551
00:41:33,200 --> 00:41:35,120
Then the cab and the roof.
552
00:41:35,120 --> 00:41:38,080
The chassis doesn't look like much,
really.
553
00:41:38,080 --> 00:41:43,160
But once you put the sides on
and when you put the cab on,
554
00:41:43,160 --> 00:41:46,160
you begin to get something
that looks like a loco.
555
00:41:48,080 --> 00:41:50,680
And this is the finished product.
556
00:41:50,680 --> 00:41:55,080
300 locomotives roll out of this
factory every year.
557
00:41:55,080 --> 00:41:58,320
Mr VP Patak is the general manager.
558
00:41:58,320 --> 00:42:02,120
It is a matter of pride for us that
our locomotives are hauling the
559
00:42:02,120 --> 00:42:06,360
fastest trains which are running in
India and the heaviest freight
560
00:42:06,360 --> 00:42:07,360
traffic.
561
00:42:09,520 --> 00:42:13,640
They are producing their own goods
here for their own market.
562
00:42:13,640 --> 00:42:19,160
This is part of modern India and has
been a long-running theme in Indian
563
00:42:19,320 --> 00:42:24,960
politics. Mahatma Gandhi urged
Indians to reject foreign textiles
564
00:42:25,080 --> 00:42:27,040
and live in homespun cloth.
565
00:42:27,040 --> 00:42:31,640
The present-day Prime Minister
Mr Modi campaigns on the slogan,
566
00:42:31,640 --> 00:42:34,200
Make In India.
567
00:42:43,720 --> 00:42:45,320
As night falls,
568
00:42:45,320 --> 00:42:51,320
I'm embarking on the final leg of my
journey which will take me around
120 miles to Kolkata.
569
00:42:52,920 --> 00:42:55,440
Known as Calcutta under colonial
rule,
570
00:42:55,440 --> 00:42:59,480
it reverted to its original Bengali
name in 2001.
571
00:43:00,720 --> 00:43:04,520
This is the late evening premium
express service.
572
00:43:04,520 --> 00:43:07,680
It is air-conditioned,
it's comfortable, of course.
573
00:43:07,680 --> 00:43:10,160
It's running reasonably on time.
574
00:43:10,160 --> 00:43:14,720
Hurray! And what's more, in my
ticket price they include dinner.
575
00:43:14,720 --> 00:43:17,760
No great surprises, if you've been
in India for awhile.
576
00:43:17,760 --> 00:43:22,040
Rice and daal and vegetable
and bread and yoghurt.
577
00:43:22,040 --> 00:43:24,520
But, hey, it hits the spot.
578
00:43:28,280 --> 00:43:30,840
How do you like the food?
579
00:43:30,840 --> 00:43:33,040
I've been enjoying the food
very much.
580
00:43:33,040 --> 00:43:37,800
I've been eating vegetarian while in
India and there's masses of lovely
flavours.
581
00:43:37,800 --> 00:43:42,800
India is all about flavours
and colours and the spice level also
varies along with that.
582
00:43:42,800 --> 00:43:45,120
And which part of India are you
from?
583
00:43:45,120 --> 00:43:48,720
I'm a Bengali but currently
I'm staying in Jharkand in Ranchi.
584
00:43:48,720 --> 00:43:50,880
I'm heading for Calcutta now.
585
00:43:50,880 --> 00:43:52,080
Kolkata.
586
00:43:52,080 --> 00:43:53,760
Are you not eating your food, sir?
587
00:43:53,760 --> 00:43:56,840
I had some evening snacks on the
way, so I'm really full,
588
00:43:56,840 --> 00:44:01,240
but my wife she is having
some dinner. Yes.
589
00:44:01,240 --> 00:44:04,400
As we're getting in quite late
I thought I'd have dinner on the
train.
590
00:44:04,400 --> 00:44:07,080
Thank you very much.
Enjoy your journey. Bon appetit.
591
00:44:17,160 --> 00:44:17,240
Kolkata, capital of West Bengal.
592
00:44:17,240 --> 00:44:20,520
Kolkata, capital of West Bengal.
593
00:44:21,760 --> 00:44:24,480
And Howrah station is heaving.
594
00:44:29,960 --> 00:44:34,720
Designed in the middle of the 19th
century remodelled at the beginning
of the 20th,
595
00:44:34,720 --> 00:44:39,840
with its 23 platforms it is India's
busiest station and only one of four
596
00:44:39,960 --> 00:44:42,560
main termini in Kolkata.
597
00:44:50,920 --> 00:44:54,240
Great Eastern Hotel, please.
Thank you.
598
00:44:58,480 --> 00:45:02,880
Three things only are necessary
to drive in India.
599
00:45:02,880 --> 00:45:06,840
A horn, good breaks
and nerves of steel.
600
00:45:16,960 --> 00:45:17,080
Most taxi drivers in Kolkata,
it seems, favour the brand-name
Ambassador.
601
00:45:17,080 --> 00:45:23,120
Most taxi drivers in Kolkata,
it seems, favour the brand-name
Ambassador.
602
00:45:23,280 --> 00:45:27,920
But British people would recognise
this as an old Morris Oxford.
603
00:45:27,920 --> 00:45:29,760
What a throwback.
604
00:45:37,440 --> 00:45:40,520
Kolkata is clearly a 24-hour city
605
00:45:40,520 --> 00:45:42,800
but I'm ready for bed.
606
00:45:42,800 --> 00:45:45,480
Hello. Good evening.
607
00:46:06,720 --> 00:46:11,120
The Great Eastern Hotel is the
oldest existing hotel in India.
608
00:46:11,120 --> 00:46:14,080
Mentioned, of course,
in my Bradshaw's guide.
609
00:46:14,080 --> 00:46:17,920
In corners like this it still has
that colonial feel.
610
00:46:17,920 --> 00:46:23,880
By 1913 the newspapers carried
snippets of revolutionary groups.
611
00:46:24,000 --> 00:46:26,360
Why pay that any mind?
612
00:46:26,360 --> 00:46:30,400
Better to focus on the creature
comforts that reminded you of home.
613
00:46:30,400 --> 00:46:32,320
Like porridge and scrambled egg.
614
00:46:39,600 --> 00:46:43,160
Reminders of Kolkata's colonial
past are everywhere.
615
00:46:48,040 --> 00:46:52,800
Ceded to the East India Company in
the 17th century, the port boomed.
616
00:46:53,840 --> 00:46:57,760
And today it's the commercial hub
of East India.
617
00:46:57,760 --> 00:47:00,520
And one of the country's
fastest-growing cities.
618
00:47:02,240 --> 00:47:04,760
It has a population of
four and a half million,
619
00:47:04,760 --> 00:47:08,480
and the streets are some of the most
congested in India.
620
00:47:11,600 --> 00:47:14,480
I think the tram might be my best
bet.
621
00:47:17,320 --> 00:47:22,600
It is almost 40 degrees today, with
humidity climbing to over 70%.
622
00:47:22,720 --> 00:47:24,880
Thank goodness this has no windows.
623
00:47:24,880 --> 00:47:27,960
It also makes it perfect
for sightseeing.
624
00:47:42,120 --> 00:47:46,280
Everywhere in India you see poverty
and beggars.
625
00:47:46,280 --> 00:47:50,280
And the tram takes you from the city
splendours to its slums.
626
00:48:06,120 --> 00:48:11,480
Kolkata was the imperial capital
for almost 140 years until
the British
627
00:48:11,640 --> 00:48:14,920
moved their seat of Government
to Delhi in 1911.
628
00:48:16,040 --> 00:48:17,720
But having lost that honour,
629
00:48:17,720 --> 00:48:22,640
Kolkata achieved a different status
according to acclaimed novelist and
630
00:48:22,640 --> 00:48:26,360
architectural heritage campaigner,
Amit Choudhury.
631
00:48:26,360 --> 00:48:30,520
Tell me about Calcutta at the moment
the city ceases to be the capital of
632
00:48:30,520 --> 00:48:35,120
India. Well, it continues to be the
most interesting city in terms of
all aspects of
633
00:48:35,120 --> 00:48:36,960
culture, including architecture.
634
00:48:36,960 --> 00:48:41,120
The houses are different from
the colonial houses or the grand
mansions of
635
00:48:41,120 --> 00:48:47,480
the North, a mix of Bengali and
European features which are
different in terms of design.
636
00:48:47,640 --> 00:48:51,120
The slatted windows, the red oxide
stone floors,
637
00:48:51,120 --> 00:48:54,640
these open porches, a sense of
space, open rooftops,
638
00:48:54,640 --> 00:48:57,080
ventilators on the sides
of the houses.
639
00:48:57,080 --> 00:49:03,040
But no two houses are identical and
this is a reminder of the fact that
640
00:49:03,240 --> 00:49:06,920
there was an energy and creative
energy in the city in terms
of buildings
641
00:49:06,920 --> 00:49:08,880
and its writing and music,
642
00:49:08,880 --> 00:49:13,840
which made it still creatively
speaking the most important Indian
city
643
00:49:13,840 --> 00:49:15,760
long after it had stopped being
the capital.
644
00:49:23,600 --> 00:49:27,560
Kolkata's best-known creative
spirit was the poet
645
00:49:27,560 --> 00:49:29,400
Rabindranath Tagore.
646
00:49:29,400 --> 00:49:32,880
The first non-European to win
the Nobel Prize for literature,
647
00:49:32,880 --> 00:49:36,960
he was born in his splendid family
mansion in 1861.
648
00:49:43,320 --> 00:49:48,120
Amit, I've heard Tagore
described as the bard of Bengal
and a polymath.
649
00:49:48,120 --> 00:49:49,400
How would you describe him?
650
00:49:49,400 --> 00:49:54,360
I describe him as an innovator, as
an experimenter, great philosopher.
651
00:49:54,360 --> 00:49:56,680
He is not like the old poets.
652
00:49:56,680 --> 00:49:58,640
He's not a devotional poet.
653
00:49:58,640 --> 00:50:01,680
He is not writing about the gods
and goddesses.
654
00:50:01,680 --> 00:50:06,120
He is a modern artist and a great
craftsman of the Bengali language.
655
00:50:06,120 --> 00:50:08,800
What forms does his writing take?
656
00:50:08,800 --> 00:50:13,880
Poems, songs, plays, of course,
novels.
657
00:50:13,880 --> 00:50:17,600
For those who can read him in
Bengali, the hundreds and millions
who can,
658
00:50:17,600 --> 00:50:19,800
what does Tagore mean to them?
659
00:50:19,800 --> 00:50:23,800
Tagore reaches and has reached a lot
of people through his songs,
660
00:50:23,800 --> 00:50:26,040
which are often rendered
quite sentimentally.
661
00:50:26,040 --> 00:50:31,040
But you contrast that with his own
very irreverent and playful use of
the past.
662
00:50:31,200 --> 00:50:35,280
He is using all kinds of material
from Irish drinking songs to
663
00:50:35,280 --> 00:50:36,600
Indian classical forms.
664
00:50:36,600 --> 00:50:40,200
Indian classical music can be sung
for hours.
665
00:50:40,200 --> 00:50:43,200
Tagore compresses songs
into three minutes.
666
00:50:52,320 --> 00:50:57,160
Tagore travelled to Britain in 1912
to promote Gitanjali,
667
00:50:57,160 --> 00:51:01,000
an English translation of
a collection of his poems.
668
00:51:01,000 --> 00:51:05,920
The Irish poet WB Yeats was so taken
with them that he agreed to write an
669
00:51:05,920 --> 00:51:08,320
introduction and in 1913,
670
00:51:08,320 --> 00:51:12,440
Tagore was awarded the Nobel Prize
for Literature.
671
00:51:12,440 --> 00:51:13,760
Then he becomes, I think,
672
00:51:13,760 --> 00:51:18,000
the first worldwide celebrity
in the domain of literature.
673
00:51:18,000 --> 00:51:19,360
Everybody knows him.
674
00:51:19,360 --> 00:51:22,920
The Germans, the Japanese, the
Chinese, the Russians, the English,
675
00:51:22,920 --> 00:51:27,880
of course, the Americans. Although
not an active political campaigner,
676
00:51:27,880 --> 00:51:32,880
Tagore was fiercely anti-British and
experimented with redefining what it
677
00:51:32,880 --> 00:51:35,160
meant to be Indian.
678
00:51:35,160 --> 00:51:39,560
He tried to distance himself
from colonial rule by wearing
clothes made
679
00:51:39,560 --> 00:51:42,080
from traditionally spun Indian
fabric.
680
00:51:46,560 --> 00:51:49,200
And here on the streets of Kolkata,
681
00:51:49,200 --> 00:51:52,160
buying local soon became
the battle cry.
682
00:51:54,240 --> 00:51:58,440
The cottage textile industry had
been ruined by the mighty mills of
683
00:51:58,440 --> 00:52:01,840
Lancashire and by unfair trade
practices.
684
00:52:01,840 --> 00:52:04,640
Here at the town hall in August
1905,
685
00:52:04,640 --> 00:52:10,960
a boycott of British cloth was
announced and so was launched
the Swadeshi movement,
686
00:52:11,080 --> 00:52:14,120
meaning reliance on one's own cloth.
687
00:52:14,120 --> 00:52:19,320
Foreign textiles were mounted into
bonfires and with that the
Swadeshi cause
688
00:52:19,480 --> 00:52:23,440
that would later be embraced
by MK Gandhi caught fire.
689
00:52:25,120 --> 00:52:28,640
ARCHIVE: Gandhi works at a spinning
wheel as he talks to his followers.
690
00:52:29,840 --> 00:52:32,640
He tells them that by making their
own cloth,
691
00:52:32,640 --> 00:52:36,120
they will create work and an
industry for themselves.
692
00:52:36,120 --> 00:52:42,040
But more important, they can
boycott English textiles sold
in India.
693
00:52:44,080 --> 00:52:47,600
Recently there has been a resurgence
of the handloom,
694
00:52:47,600 --> 00:52:53,320
with demand from fashion designers
for traditionally made fabrics such
as handspun khadi.
695
00:52:56,280 --> 00:52:59,240
Dashan Shah runs the weavers studio,
696
00:52:59,240 --> 00:53:02,000
making handcrafted clothes
and textiles.
697
00:53:08,720 --> 00:53:10,960
Hello, nice to meet you.
Lovely to see you.
698
00:53:10,960 --> 00:53:12,840
I feel as if I've stepped back
in time.
699
00:53:12,840 --> 00:53:17,520
Yes. Now, people here today are
clearly working in the traditional
way.
700
00:53:17,520 --> 00:53:22,120
Why? Our mission statement of our
company when we started 23 years ago
was
701
00:53:22,120 --> 00:53:26,240
to use as many hands as possible and
keep the cottage industry going and
702
00:53:26,240 --> 00:53:29,360
the traditional techniques
and our history and heritage,
703
00:53:29,360 --> 00:53:32,520
what has been there for the last
2,000 plus years.
704
00:53:32,520 --> 00:53:36,080
And these looms, would they be
recognisable from decades ago?
705
00:53:36,080 --> 00:53:39,240
Yes. There is no machinery.
We have not even added a motor.
706
00:53:39,240 --> 00:53:41,920
And who are the people who are
working here?
707
00:53:41,920 --> 00:53:46,160
They are all master weavers who have
come from the villages and who also
have
708
00:53:46,160 --> 00:53:49,800
their own units, so they may be
doing some bits of work on the side
709
00:53:49,800 --> 00:53:52,440
but they get the kind of respect
and they get the kind of opportunity
710
00:53:52,440 --> 00:53:54,760
over here which they could reproduce
in the villages.
711
00:53:54,760 --> 00:53:56,400
So you are transferring skills?
712
00:53:56,400 --> 00:53:58,120
Yes. To the villages.
713
00:53:58,120 --> 00:53:59,800
Now, from your perspective,
714
00:53:59,800 --> 00:54:04,880
why, in 1905, is there this boycott
in Calcutta of British cloth?
715
00:54:04,880 --> 00:54:09,000
This cloth that came into India were
much cheaper and so they were
716
00:54:09,000 --> 00:54:12,640
flooding the market and making us
lose the handloom industry.
717
00:54:12,640 --> 00:54:16,320
So our handloom goods were being put
on the side and the British goods
718
00:54:16,320 --> 00:54:19,360
were taking over. Was that leading
to unemployment?
719
00:54:19,360 --> 00:54:24,240
It led to a lot of unemployment
as well as no longer feeling
the pride of wearing the cloth
720
00:54:24,240 --> 00:54:27,440
that you weave, which was
a tradition in India, always.
721
00:54:27,440 --> 00:54:31,840
Now, when people start to make
bonfires of foreign clothes
and foreign cloth,
722
00:54:31,840 --> 00:54:35,360
presumably there is a lot of
self-sacrifice involved in that.
723
00:54:35,360 --> 00:54:36,680
They had paid for those things.
724
00:54:36,680 --> 00:54:41,120
Yes, but then what Gandhi and the
other political leaders ignited
within
725
00:54:41,120 --> 00:54:45,040
them is this pride for ourselves
and the pride for freedom.
726
00:54:45,040 --> 00:54:47,640
Realising they are being suppressed
at every level.
727
00:54:47,640 --> 00:54:51,880
So the freedom movement is what
ignited all the people to come out
on the streets,
728
00:54:51,880 --> 00:54:53,840
to give up their foreign clothes,
729
00:54:53,840 --> 00:54:58,840
to burn it and to say that here we
will start a new beginning and we
will go back
730
00:54:58,960 --> 00:55:00,720
to making our own cloth.
731
00:55:00,720 --> 00:55:06,760
Now, MK Gandhi famously goes and
starts a village life and sits with
his spinning wheel.
732
00:55:06,880 --> 00:55:08,360
Is it one like this?
733
00:55:08,360 --> 00:55:11,080
Yes, very similar to this,
but a little bit smaller.
734
00:55:11,080 --> 00:55:15,320
He also had a machine that you can
put into a small wooden box and take
it around with him.
735
00:55:15,320 --> 00:55:17,800
Whenever he travelled he would
carry it.
736
00:55:17,800 --> 00:55:22,840
Weaving for him every morning was
his way of saying that I believe
in what I'm propagating.
737
00:55:24,000 --> 00:55:28,360
Surrounded by men spinning thread,
I'm intrigued to have a go myself.
738
00:55:28,360 --> 00:55:32,200
I think I'm going to kneel rather
than attempt cross-legged.
739
00:55:32,200 --> 00:55:34,840
Yes. Now, finger and thumb
on the thread like that.
740
00:55:34,840 --> 00:55:36,480
Yes. Control the movement.
741
00:55:36,480 --> 00:55:39,280
Moving it from one end to the other,
yes?
742
00:55:39,280 --> 00:55:43,400
Yes. There should be an equal
distribution of the yarn.
743
00:55:43,400 --> 00:55:47,560
Moving it backwards and forwards
across the bobbin so that it forms a
744
00:55:47,560 --> 00:55:49,680
little bump in the middle.
745
00:55:54,200 --> 00:55:57,080
Tell me whether the master weaver
is looking horrified.
746
00:55:57,080 --> 00:55:59,760
You are doing very well.
Are you finding that simple?
747
00:55:59,760 --> 00:56:03,440
I'm finding it simple and quite
restful, actually.
748
00:56:03,440 --> 00:56:07,800
Yes. It does require some
concentration. Yes.
749
00:56:07,800 --> 00:56:11,280
Gandhi urged Indians to make
their own cloth.
750
00:56:11,280 --> 00:56:13,720
For a politician, it was a good
spin.
751
00:56:17,840 --> 00:56:23,680
Handcrafted traditional fabrics are
now a favourite with India's
fashion houses.
752
00:56:23,840 --> 00:56:26,720
These models are sporting some
of this season's looks.
753
00:56:34,400 --> 00:56:36,400
Ladies, hello.
754
00:56:36,400 --> 00:56:40,240
Today is very, very humid and very,
very hot.
755
00:56:40,240 --> 00:56:42,880
How does it feel to be wearing these
kinds of garments?
756
00:56:42,880 --> 00:56:46,040
These are very comfortable to wear.
And it's very skin friendly.
757
00:56:46,040 --> 00:56:48,480
That's very important in this
weather.
758
00:56:48,480 --> 00:56:51,920
Indian weather is so humid and so
hot and these are so thin and they
are
759
00:56:51,920 --> 00:56:55,120
so nice so you don't really feel
that much of heat with this.
760
00:56:55,120 --> 00:56:58,600
And does it make you feel proud?
Does it matter to you to wear
something that's Indian?
761
00:56:58,600 --> 00:57:03,240
Nowadays everyone is more prone
towards the international fashion
brands
762
00:57:03,240 --> 00:57:08,280
but I think wearing khadi in this
form is not only giving us the
Indian background that we have,
763
00:57:08,440 --> 00:57:12,280
it is also promoting the modern wear
so it is a combination of both.
764
00:57:12,280 --> 00:57:15,280
I am feeling patriotic
and good wearing this.
765
00:57:20,960 --> 00:57:23,920
Here in the Maidan City Centre Park,
766
00:57:23,920 --> 00:57:29,400
the Victoria Memorial was built to
commemorate an empress and an Empire
767
00:57:29,520 --> 00:57:30,520
at its height.
768
00:57:34,160 --> 00:57:37,760
When the British government pushed
aside the East India Company,
769
00:57:37,760 --> 00:57:40,800
it may have governed India
efficiently,
770
00:57:40,800 --> 00:57:44,520
trained up an able class of Indian
civil servant,
771
00:57:44,520 --> 00:57:47,680
built railways that tied the country
together.
772
00:57:47,680 --> 00:57:50,640
But it ruled without consideration,
773
00:57:50,640 --> 00:57:53,760
not understanding Indian religions,
774
00:57:53,760 --> 00:57:58,160
trampling on Indian traditions
and Indian pride.
775
00:57:58,160 --> 00:58:02,960
Tagore once wrote to an imaginary
reader in a future age,
776
00:58:02,960 --> 00:58:07,560
"May you feel the living joy
that sang one spring morning,
777
00:58:07,560 --> 00:58:11,960
"sending its glad voice
across 100 years."
778
00:58:11,960 --> 00:58:16,360
Within a century the insensitivities
that caused the Indian Rebellion of
779
00:58:16,360 --> 00:58:21,440
1857 had led the sun to set upon
the British Raj.