1 00:00:09,360 --> 00:00:13,320 I'm on a journey around beautiful and troubled Burma - 2 00:00:13,320 --> 00:00:17,040 one of the largest countries in South East Asia. 3 00:00:19,440 --> 00:00:21,560 On the first leg of my travels here, 4 00:00:21,560 --> 00:00:24,440 I witnessed how Burma's all-powerful military 5 00:00:24,440 --> 00:00:26,600 has turned on the Rohingya people. 6 00:00:32,680 --> 00:00:35,040 This time, I discover more of a country 7 00:00:35,040 --> 00:00:37,400 that was cut off for decades. 8 00:00:37,400 --> 00:00:39,640 I haven't seen a sight like this anywhere in the world. 9 00:00:41,680 --> 00:00:44,480 I visit the glorious highlands of Shan State. 10 00:00:48,320 --> 00:00:49,960 More? More? 11 00:00:51,120 --> 00:00:56,560 It's just completely, totally fantastic. 12 00:00:56,560 --> 00:00:59,160 In the heart of the infamous Golden Triangle, 13 00:00:59,160 --> 00:01:01,880 I travelled secretly into a conflict zone... 14 00:01:01,880 --> 00:01:03,560 There's another checkpoint ahead, 15 00:01:03,560 --> 00:01:05,920 and we're not sure we can get through it in the car, 16 00:01:05,920 --> 00:01:09,080 and so we're going to have to try sneaking around it on foot. 17 00:01:09,080 --> 00:01:11,960 ..to discover the rebel force waging a hidden war. 18 00:01:14,440 --> 00:01:16,360 Going off on patrol. 19 00:01:16,360 --> 00:01:20,320 It's supposed to be one nation - a fledgling democracy. 20 00:01:20,320 --> 00:01:23,000 But Burma's still racked by ethnic conflict. 21 00:01:40,800 --> 00:01:42,720 I'm next to the Irrawaddy River, 22 00:01:42,720 --> 00:01:47,000 and I'm just beginning the second leg of my journey across Myanmar - 23 00:01:47,000 --> 00:01:48,680 better known as Burma. 24 00:01:52,560 --> 00:01:54,720 No bouncing. 25 00:01:56,840 --> 00:01:58,240 Are we on the right boat? 26 00:01:58,240 --> 00:01:59,840 Towards Mandalay? 27 00:01:59,840 --> 00:02:01,320 This one. 28 00:02:09,080 --> 00:02:11,240 The name of the country's important. 29 00:02:11,240 --> 00:02:13,400 It was called Burma for decades, of course, 30 00:02:13,400 --> 00:02:16,000 and then the former military dictatorship 31 00:02:16,000 --> 00:02:17,880 decided to rename it Myanmar. 32 00:02:19,280 --> 00:02:23,160 In English, Burma is still often used as the country's name. 33 00:02:23,160 --> 00:02:25,160 Many people here still use both. 34 00:02:26,280 --> 00:02:30,400 I was heading out on a local ferry boat along the Irrawaddy River, 35 00:02:30,400 --> 00:02:31,800 towards the city of Mandalay. 36 00:02:33,840 --> 00:02:37,640 The Irrawaddy flows more than 1,000 miles from north to south. 37 00:02:39,040 --> 00:02:41,120 I like this gentleman's technique. 38 00:02:44,000 --> 00:02:46,000 So the foot means more power. 39 00:02:48,400 --> 00:02:50,920 What does the river mean to you personally? 40 00:03:01,360 --> 00:03:04,520 It's now just a few years since the country 41 00:03:04,520 --> 00:03:08,640 began the process of transitioning from, er, 42 00:03:08,640 --> 00:03:10,640 to become a democracy. 43 00:03:10,640 --> 00:03:13,440 I'm just wondering - you do a very special route 44 00:03:13,440 --> 00:03:15,520 through the country. 45 00:03:15,520 --> 00:03:19,000 Have you seen anything starting to change 46 00:03:19,000 --> 00:03:21,000 for people living along the river bank? 47 00:03:31,360 --> 00:03:32,760 It will take time, hey? 48 00:03:49,240 --> 00:03:52,600 We're coming to some sort of mooring point. 49 00:03:55,080 --> 00:04:00,200 The community here is very disconnected from the outside world. 50 00:04:00,200 --> 00:04:01,800 The river is their lifeline. 51 00:04:02,880 --> 00:04:07,280 There's a track to this community but no real road. 52 00:04:07,280 --> 00:04:10,080 Remember, independence from the British, 53 00:04:10,080 --> 00:04:12,800 this was one of the wealthiest countries in Asia. 54 00:04:13,840 --> 00:04:15,200 In the decades that followed, 55 00:04:15,200 --> 00:04:17,280 it became a military dictatorship, 56 00:04:17,280 --> 00:04:21,360 and it became one of the poorest countries in the world. 57 00:04:21,360 --> 00:04:25,240 The military dictatorship lasted for nearly 50 years. 58 00:04:25,240 --> 00:04:27,320 Then in 2011, the military said 59 00:04:27,320 --> 00:04:30,000 they'd step aside to let civilians rule. 60 00:04:30,000 --> 00:04:33,160 Life has improved for some people since then, but here 61 00:04:33,160 --> 00:04:35,640 it looked like they were still living in a previous century. 62 00:04:39,160 --> 00:04:43,440 Most people in Myanmar, in Burma, are farmers. 63 00:04:43,440 --> 00:04:45,040 They work the land. 64 00:04:45,040 --> 00:04:49,160 And they do it with ancient equipment and kit. 65 00:04:49,160 --> 00:04:55,000 A wooden cart, for goodness' sake, in the 21st-century. 66 00:05:03,080 --> 00:05:04,520 Best to take the hint. 67 00:05:06,200 --> 00:05:10,200 Under democracy, the leader of the country is now supposed to be 68 00:05:10,200 --> 00:05:13,200 the former human rights icon, Aung San Suu Kyi. 69 00:05:13,200 --> 00:05:15,280 She promised reform and change. 70 00:05:15,280 --> 00:05:18,000 There are incredible natural resources here, 71 00:05:18,000 --> 00:05:19,720 incredible natural wealth. 72 00:05:19,720 --> 00:05:22,560 But the ownership of them, the control of them, 73 00:05:22,560 --> 00:05:24,880 is in the hands of an elite few, 74 00:05:24,880 --> 00:05:28,160 many of them generals or former generals. 75 00:05:28,160 --> 00:05:31,680 Not a lot of it trickles down to communities like this. 76 00:05:34,520 --> 00:05:38,400 The military said they'd relinquish control but, in fact, 77 00:05:38,400 --> 00:05:42,200 much of the money and the power here is still in their hands. 78 00:06:04,520 --> 00:06:09,560 I'd arrived into Mandalay, the second-largest city in the country. 79 00:06:09,560 --> 00:06:13,240 Famous for its magnificent palace, it was once the royal capital. 80 00:06:15,280 --> 00:06:17,040 Fortunes have long been made here, 81 00:06:17,040 --> 00:06:20,400 trading Burma's spectacular natural resources 82 00:06:20,400 --> 00:06:22,640 and today it's an economic hub, 83 00:06:22,640 --> 00:06:25,640 thanks in part to strong links with China, 84 00:06:25,640 --> 00:06:28,680 which is just a couple of hundred miles to the east. 85 00:06:28,680 --> 00:06:32,080 I'm off to a market now where they sell the so-called stone of heaven. 86 00:06:34,560 --> 00:06:38,800 Prized for jewellery and ornaments, the stone is jade. 87 00:06:40,040 --> 00:06:44,080 Most of the rarest and most valuable jade in the world comes from Burma. 88 00:06:44,080 --> 00:06:46,480 Wow! Look at that! 89 00:06:46,480 --> 00:06:48,600 Every day, hundreds of sellers make the trek 90 00:06:48,600 --> 00:06:51,640 from secretive jade mines in the north of Myanmar, 91 00:06:51,640 --> 00:06:56,200 to this market, laden with rough green slabs. 92 00:06:56,200 --> 00:06:58,000 Right, he's in the middle of a sale. 93 00:06:58,000 --> 00:06:59,560 It's enormous! 94 00:06:59,560 --> 00:07:02,360 How much are you hoping to get for this stone today? 95 00:07:06,920 --> 00:07:08,800 That's a huge sum of money, isn't it? 96 00:07:08,800 --> 00:07:10,400 Is that going to go to you? 97 00:07:10,400 --> 00:07:11,440 Will you get that? 98 00:07:13,760 --> 00:07:15,760 What will you do with the money? 99 00:07:18,040 --> 00:07:19,960 So you keep trading up? 100 00:07:19,960 --> 00:07:21,560 OK. 101 00:07:21,560 --> 00:07:24,680 Jade's been highly prized in China for millennia 102 00:07:24,680 --> 00:07:26,400 by emperors and merchants, 103 00:07:26,400 --> 00:07:29,520 and now by the new Chinese middle-class. 104 00:07:29,520 --> 00:07:31,640 Buyers come here from across China. 105 00:07:40,720 --> 00:07:43,160 When you are deciding, what are you looking for? 106 00:07:43,160 --> 00:07:45,240 How do you look at it? How do you assess it? 107 00:07:50,120 --> 00:07:53,200 So you want it to be as transparent as possible? 108 00:07:58,800 --> 00:08:00,880 Are you going to make an offer for this? 109 00:08:00,880 --> 00:08:02,480 Are you going to buy it? 110 00:08:05,240 --> 00:08:06,280 Sorry. 111 00:08:10,440 --> 00:08:11,760 Oh, this is beautiful. 112 00:08:14,560 --> 00:08:16,160 Will you pay 400 for this? 113 00:08:19,960 --> 00:08:21,160 So, there's a crack there. 114 00:08:26,920 --> 00:08:29,560 This is very clearly a buyer's market. 115 00:08:30,960 --> 00:08:34,840 One of the many things that's really incredible about this place is just 116 00:08:34,840 --> 00:08:38,800 how dependent it is on China. 117 00:08:38,800 --> 00:08:42,280 We're just a few hundred miles from the Chinese border here 118 00:08:42,280 --> 00:08:46,000 and so many of the buyers, most of the buyers here, are Chinese. 119 00:08:46,000 --> 00:08:49,320 China has long had power and influence in Burma. 120 00:08:49,320 --> 00:08:51,760 From trading with the country, of course, 121 00:08:51,760 --> 00:08:54,160 but also helping to prop up the military dictatorship. 122 00:08:54,160 --> 00:08:55,920 This is what the jade becomes. 123 00:08:55,920 --> 00:08:58,760 Oh, yeah, there's a price. Let's have a look. So that one is... 124 00:09:01,520 --> 00:09:03,360 4,000 dollars. 125 00:09:03,360 --> 00:09:04,760 So about £3,000. 126 00:09:04,760 --> 00:09:07,000 She's holding on to it. 127 00:09:07,000 --> 00:09:09,320 I'm teasing it away from her fingers. 128 00:09:09,320 --> 00:09:11,960 So that's about £3,000. 129 00:09:39,680 --> 00:09:41,240 A little bit small for my wrist. 130 00:09:41,240 --> 00:09:42,280 Still... 131 00:09:48,480 --> 00:09:50,040 I can't fit... 132 00:09:50,040 --> 00:09:51,960 Ah, magic. 133 00:09:51,960 --> 00:09:54,320 You see. She knows what she's doing. 134 00:09:54,320 --> 00:09:55,360 I bet... 135 00:09:56,760 --> 00:09:58,760 Oh, like this. OK. 136 00:09:58,760 --> 00:10:00,640 It's not going to come off, I tell you. 137 00:10:00,640 --> 00:10:02,320 There we go. 138 00:10:02,320 --> 00:10:03,840 Do men normally wear this? 139 00:10:06,760 --> 00:10:08,640 For anything. For anyone. 140 00:10:08,640 --> 00:10:11,000 I think I know what's happened here. 141 00:10:11,000 --> 00:10:13,600 Now I'm not going to be able to get off, am I? 142 00:10:13,600 --> 00:10:15,080 So I'm going to have to buy. 143 00:10:18,160 --> 00:10:20,040 A discount. Discount for you. 144 00:10:20,040 --> 00:10:22,800 I don't think I'm paid enough, but it is very beautiful. 145 00:10:23,840 --> 00:10:26,840 The jade industry in Myanmar is enormous, 146 00:10:26,840 --> 00:10:30,400 believed to be worth more than £20 billion a year. 147 00:10:30,400 --> 00:10:33,000 But much is sold via the black market. 148 00:10:33,000 --> 00:10:36,320 This is about as close as I can get to the source of jade. 149 00:10:36,320 --> 00:10:40,200 Almost all of it comes from the far north of Myanmar, 150 00:10:40,200 --> 00:10:42,520 an area that's completely closed to us. 151 00:10:43,520 --> 00:10:46,680 Conditions in the jade mines are often horrendous. 152 00:10:46,680 --> 00:10:50,080 Many are run by people connected to the Burmese military. 153 00:10:50,080 --> 00:10:52,280 As with so much else here, army generals, 154 00:10:52,280 --> 00:10:54,680 or former army generals, pull the strings, 155 00:10:54,680 --> 00:10:57,280 and they don't want outsiders knowing what's going on. 156 00:11:06,120 --> 00:11:09,200 The international campaigning group Global Witness 157 00:11:09,200 --> 00:11:11,160 has suggested jade mining in Burma 158 00:11:11,160 --> 00:11:14,960 might be the biggest natural resources heist in modern history. 159 00:11:21,360 --> 00:11:25,280 It isn't just money from jade that's not benefiting the people here. 160 00:11:25,280 --> 00:11:27,200 I left Mandalay and headed into 161 00:11:27,200 --> 00:11:29,920 one of Burma's main oil-producing regions. 162 00:11:29,920 --> 00:11:32,520 But first we needed to get permission. 163 00:11:32,520 --> 00:11:37,080 We're now heading to an immigration office where local officials 164 00:11:37,080 --> 00:11:38,560 apparently are going to decide 165 00:11:38,560 --> 00:11:40,440 whether or not we can stay in the area. 166 00:11:41,640 --> 00:11:43,880 That does fill me with a bit of dread. 167 00:11:48,120 --> 00:11:51,120 Here's my passport. I should stay here? 168 00:11:51,120 --> 00:11:52,880 We should keep the windows... 169 00:11:52,880 --> 00:11:54,360 OK. 170 00:11:54,360 --> 00:11:55,400 All right. 171 00:12:00,480 --> 00:12:04,160 It became clear a surveillance unit from the Burmese secret police 172 00:12:04,160 --> 00:12:07,200 had been keeping a close eye on our travels and filming. 173 00:12:08,720 --> 00:12:11,280 We didn't know whether we'd be allowed to stay in the area. 174 00:12:12,280 --> 00:12:13,920 But we had all our paperwork, 175 00:12:13,920 --> 00:12:17,480 and were supposed to be allowed to travel and film freely here. 176 00:12:23,080 --> 00:12:24,600 Good news. Excellent. 177 00:12:24,600 --> 00:12:25,640 All done. 178 00:12:28,040 --> 00:12:30,520 As Burma now opens to the world, 179 00:12:30,520 --> 00:12:33,320 foreign oil companies are investing in the country, 180 00:12:33,320 --> 00:12:35,520 carving up drilling areas. 181 00:12:35,520 --> 00:12:39,000 But many ordinary folk are also keen to get the riches underground. 182 00:12:41,520 --> 00:12:42,560 Bloody hell. 183 00:12:45,880 --> 00:12:47,360 Right. Let's go. 184 00:12:49,880 --> 00:12:54,080 This is one of the largest unofficial oil-drilling areas on the planet. 185 00:12:56,400 --> 00:12:59,080 I haven't seen a site like this anywhere in the world. 186 00:13:04,720 --> 00:13:07,120 This looks as though this is a real, 187 00:13:07,120 --> 00:13:10,280 almost little family patches, it's bizarre. 188 00:13:11,400 --> 00:13:14,400 Thousands of people have come here from across Burma, 189 00:13:14,400 --> 00:13:17,120 to dig and drill for the black gold, 190 00:13:17,120 --> 00:13:18,760 using the most basic equipment. 191 00:13:22,240 --> 00:13:23,280 What are you doing? 192 00:13:27,960 --> 00:13:30,560 So you use the pipe as a bucket? 193 00:13:32,960 --> 00:13:34,440 The winch is really going down. 194 00:13:36,760 --> 00:13:38,600 How far down do you put the pipe? 195 00:13:42,320 --> 00:13:45,160 What an astonishing system this is! 196 00:13:48,080 --> 00:13:49,120 Here comes the pipe. 197 00:13:51,720 --> 00:13:55,400 He's unplugging it, letting out water from the deep 198 00:13:55,400 --> 00:13:57,640 by the look of it. 199 00:13:57,640 --> 00:14:02,480 Then, when it starts to turn dark yellow, that goes into the bucket. 200 00:14:11,000 --> 00:14:13,160 I've never really seen anything like this. 201 00:14:14,640 --> 00:14:18,480 It's thought there could be more than 50,000 primitive oil wells 202 00:14:18,480 --> 00:14:20,200 throughout this region. 203 00:14:21,880 --> 00:14:23,720 Is this your well? 204 00:14:23,720 --> 00:14:26,360 Do you own the well that you're drilling now? 205 00:14:28,000 --> 00:14:31,000 What was life like for you before you started working here. 206 00:14:31,000 --> 00:14:32,040 What were you doing? 207 00:14:33,800 --> 00:14:34,960 You were a farmer! 208 00:14:36,920 --> 00:14:41,320 It's a bit of a shift, isn't it, from working with the soil 209 00:14:41,320 --> 00:14:43,040 to working with oil? 210 00:14:43,040 --> 00:14:44,440 Which job do you prefer? 211 00:14:48,200 --> 00:14:50,160 Why don't you go back to farming? 212 00:15:04,120 --> 00:15:07,280 My God! So, this is the best alternative. 213 00:15:10,520 --> 00:15:12,960 It's dirty and dangerous work - 214 00:15:12,960 --> 00:15:15,040 completely unregulated. 215 00:15:15,040 --> 00:15:17,880 Fires and explosions are a constant hazard. 216 00:15:17,880 --> 00:15:20,560 And, of course, the oil is toxic. 217 00:15:20,560 --> 00:15:22,400 But poverty drives desperation. 218 00:15:23,480 --> 00:15:25,600 The vast majority of the millions 219 00:15:25,600 --> 00:15:29,280 living below the poverty line in Burma are in rural areas. 220 00:15:29,280 --> 00:15:32,600 23-year-old Yemen Byne took me back to meet his family. 221 00:15:39,920 --> 00:15:43,160 So your husband is saying that... 222 00:15:43,160 --> 00:15:45,520 He quite misses being a farmer, 223 00:15:45,520 --> 00:15:48,600 but he needs to be here to earn good money. 224 00:15:48,600 --> 00:15:51,040 Are you happy for you as a family to be here? 225 00:16:18,520 --> 00:16:22,400 Poverty has actually been declining in Myanmar, but the country lags 226 00:16:22,400 --> 00:16:24,960 behind neighbours like Thailand and Vietnam, 227 00:16:24,960 --> 00:16:28,200 which have seen huge increases in living standards. 228 00:16:28,200 --> 00:16:30,240 But even here people are starting to feel 229 00:16:30,240 --> 00:16:33,880 more connected to the outside world - albeit virtually. 230 00:16:38,160 --> 00:16:40,600 This is the first time seeing a foreigner. 231 00:16:40,600 --> 00:16:43,880 Have you never seen a white person before? 232 00:16:43,880 --> 00:16:46,280 Have you heard anything about our small country? 233 00:16:46,280 --> 00:16:48,680 What about Manchester United? 234 00:16:51,400 --> 00:16:52,560 The Queen of England? 235 00:16:54,680 --> 00:16:55,720 David Beckham? 236 00:17:00,360 --> 00:17:01,920 Isn't it an amazing thing? 237 00:17:01,920 --> 00:17:05,000 You can access the world through your smartphone. 238 00:17:19,320 --> 00:17:22,960 Most of the people I'd met on the central plains of Myanmar were 239 00:17:22,960 --> 00:17:25,520 from the majority Bamar ethnic group, 240 00:17:25,520 --> 00:17:28,400 who comprise almost 70% of the population. 241 00:17:31,120 --> 00:17:35,080 Now I headed east into the country's vast forested highlands - 242 00:17:35,080 --> 00:17:38,160 home to some of the dozens of other ethnic minorities 243 00:17:38,160 --> 00:17:39,720 who make up this huge country. 244 00:17:42,520 --> 00:17:45,960 I was entering Shan State, the biggest in Burma. 245 00:17:45,960 --> 00:17:48,040 It makes up a quarter of the entire country. 246 00:17:53,400 --> 00:17:56,280 Nearly 3,000 feet up in the Shan Hills 247 00:17:56,280 --> 00:17:57,960 is one of the wonders of Burma. 248 00:17:57,960 --> 00:18:00,640 HE SPEAKS LOCAL LANGUAGE 249 00:18:01,640 --> 00:18:02,680 Hello. 250 00:18:04,880 --> 00:18:05,920 Hello. 251 00:18:06,960 --> 00:18:09,400 I'd arranged to meet local guide Jau So. 252 00:18:15,880 --> 00:18:20,120 Here we are. We've just gone through the entrance, if you like, 253 00:18:20,120 --> 00:18:25,320 and we're now on the magnificent, extraordinary Inle Lake. 254 00:18:25,320 --> 00:18:28,760 This mountain lake is around 45 square miles in size. 255 00:18:29,960 --> 00:18:32,680 This huge lake is absolutely stunning. 256 00:18:33,920 --> 00:18:37,600 It's been described as being like the Galapagos of Asia, 257 00:18:37,600 --> 00:18:41,520 because life here has been cut off from the outside world 258 00:18:41,520 --> 00:18:44,680 for an absolute age, and it's evolved in 259 00:18:44,680 --> 00:18:47,240 special and spectacular ways. 260 00:18:47,240 --> 00:18:49,360 Among the numerous endemic species found 261 00:18:49,360 --> 00:18:51,160 in the lake is the unique Inle carp. 262 00:18:51,160 --> 00:18:55,640 Hard to see in this silty water but it's long played an important 263 00:18:55,640 --> 00:18:58,880 role in the life of the 100,000 Intha people, 264 00:18:58,880 --> 00:19:01,240 who live around and on the lake. 265 00:19:01,240 --> 00:19:04,680 The depth of the lake is just a couple of metres so... 266 00:19:04,680 --> 00:19:08,040 whopping big poles into the ground. 267 00:19:08,040 --> 00:19:11,920 And then they put up the structures, 268 00:19:11,920 --> 00:19:14,520 to include a whopping pagoda. 269 00:19:18,480 --> 00:19:20,040 In 2015, 270 00:19:20,040 --> 00:19:22,400 the United Nations added the lake to 271 00:19:22,400 --> 00:19:25,080 the world network of biosphere reserves - 272 00:19:25,080 --> 00:19:26,640 the first in Myanmar. 273 00:19:35,160 --> 00:19:38,400 This is incredible. This is like Burma's version of Venice. 274 00:19:46,280 --> 00:19:49,200 It's an upcoming tourist destination, 275 00:19:49,200 --> 00:19:52,480 but also a precious ecosystem for the Intha people, 276 00:19:52,480 --> 00:19:55,440 who traditionally make a living from fishing and farming. 277 00:20:03,440 --> 00:20:05,560 Looks as though we're heading for a bang. 278 00:20:05,560 --> 00:20:06,720 HE SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE 279 00:20:10,000 --> 00:20:13,280 Jau So took me to some rather clogged side channels 280 00:20:13,280 --> 00:20:15,120 to see just how to feed a family 281 00:20:15,120 --> 00:20:17,360 and make a living when you live on a lake. 282 00:20:23,200 --> 00:20:24,880 Look what's ahead! 283 00:20:25,920 --> 00:20:26,960 Tomatoes! 284 00:20:33,240 --> 00:20:34,360 It floats. 285 00:20:37,480 --> 00:20:38,920 And does it work well? 286 00:21:08,840 --> 00:21:11,120 The area covered by floating farms 287 00:21:11,120 --> 00:21:14,400 increased by up to 500% in recent decades. 288 00:21:14,400 --> 00:21:17,000 They produce hundreds of tonnes of tomatoes a day. 289 00:21:17,000 --> 00:21:21,760 Because farmers are using quantities of fertilisers and pesticides, 290 00:21:21,760 --> 00:21:24,360 the delicate ecosystem is threatened, 291 00:21:24,360 --> 00:21:26,960 changing life here for the locals and the fish. 292 00:21:29,280 --> 00:21:32,240 So they fish in a quite extraordinary way. 293 00:21:32,240 --> 00:21:35,360 There's a gentleman here doing a most incredible pose. 294 00:21:36,360 --> 00:21:39,240 This is one of the signature images of Myanmar. 295 00:21:39,240 --> 00:21:43,160 It's a very popular, famous image of the country. 296 00:21:44,800 --> 00:21:47,440 He does seem to have caught a fish in the side of that net. 297 00:21:48,800 --> 00:21:50,280 It looks very dead. 298 00:21:50,280 --> 00:21:52,120 I wonder if it might be a bit of a prop. 299 00:21:58,000 --> 00:21:59,520 To make a living from fishing. 300 00:22:05,840 --> 00:22:09,240 Can I just ask, do you make more money doing this than fishing? 301 00:22:18,960 --> 00:22:20,800 Fishing is dying out. 302 00:22:20,800 --> 00:22:22,160 The lake is being poisoned, 303 00:22:22,160 --> 00:22:24,480 and another threat comes from the surrounding hills. 304 00:22:24,480 --> 00:22:26,880 Look at this! 305 00:22:26,880 --> 00:22:30,080 So is this dredging? 306 00:22:30,080 --> 00:22:31,640 Why is it dredging here? 307 00:23:01,040 --> 00:23:04,640 Up in the hills, Burma's farmers chop down trees to clear land for 308 00:23:04,640 --> 00:23:09,320 cultivation, but tree roots hold the soil together. 309 00:23:09,320 --> 00:23:10,840 Without them, silt floods down 310 00:23:10,840 --> 00:23:12,880 rivers during rains, clogging the lake. 311 00:23:15,400 --> 00:23:19,560 Experts fear beautiful Lake Inle could one day disappear. 312 00:23:27,840 --> 00:23:32,520 Forest cover in Myanmar has fallen dramatically in just a generation. 313 00:23:32,520 --> 00:23:35,680 What's left contains astonishing biodiversity, 314 00:23:35,680 --> 00:23:39,320 including some of the most magnificent trees on the planet. 315 00:23:39,320 --> 00:23:43,960 So we are just stopped by the side of the road, 316 00:23:43,960 --> 00:23:48,240 because we saw this incredible teak tree! 317 00:23:49,360 --> 00:23:51,360 This is a wonder tree. 318 00:23:51,360 --> 00:23:56,960 It grows most exceptionally here in Burma, in Myanmar. 319 00:23:58,320 --> 00:24:00,200 Fortunes have been made from this tree. 320 00:24:01,680 --> 00:24:05,080 Teak was one of the world's most important natural resources. 321 00:24:05,080 --> 00:24:07,680 It was what first attracted the British to Burma. 322 00:24:07,680 --> 00:24:10,040 They felled countless great trees for the Royal Navy. 323 00:24:13,000 --> 00:24:15,680 Even after Burma secured its independence from Britain, 324 00:24:15,680 --> 00:24:18,320 they kept chopping the trees down. 325 00:24:18,320 --> 00:24:22,680 It was a massive source of revenue for the military dictatorship. 326 00:24:24,880 --> 00:24:28,280 Burmese teak is renowned as the best in the world. 327 00:24:28,280 --> 00:24:30,000 Part of what makes it so strong, 328 00:24:30,000 --> 00:24:33,520 valuable and special is how long it takes to grow. 329 00:24:33,520 --> 00:24:36,560 An inch in diameter in 20 years by one reckoning. 330 00:24:38,080 --> 00:24:41,160 There was often only one way of extracting the valuable timber. 331 00:24:42,960 --> 00:24:44,680 Oh, wow! 332 00:24:44,680 --> 00:24:45,720 This is quite the scene. 333 00:24:48,040 --> 00:24:49,880 You know what, Myanmar is a country... 334 00:25:03,480 --> 00:25:06,120 Since the arrival of democracy, 335 00:25:06,120 --> 00:25:08,440 the Government here has tried to reduce logging 336 00:25:08,440 --> 00:25:09,720 to preserve the forests. 337 00:25:11,480 --> 00:25:15,120 But that's left 40% of working elephants in Burma out of a job. 338 00:25:16,400 --> 00:25:18,120 To support ellies, 339 00:25:18,120 --> 00:25:20,920 lucky travellers can visit and get up close 340 00:25:20,920 --> 00:25:23,440 at the Greenhill Elephant Sanctuary, 341 00:25:23,440 --> 00:25:25,920 set up by Tin Win Maw and her husband. 342 00:25:31,560 --> 00:25:35,760 What's her name? She's called Hug Mo Yin. 343 00:25:35,760 --> 00:25:38,120 We need to introduce who you are, 344 00:25:38,120 --> 00:25:42,160 so we will make you friendship with our elephants and you. 345 00:25:43,200 --> 00:25:44,560 Elephants are big eater. 346 00:25:44,560 --> 00:25:46,160 They can eat all day long. 347 00:25:46,160 --> 00:25:48,920 So as long as you don't get tired of feeding, 348 00:25:48,920 --> 00:25:50,800 they never get tired of eating. 349 00:25:50,800 --> 00:25:54,680 And later they will recognise you as their new good friend. 350 00:25:54,680 --> 00:25:56,520 I would like that very much. 351 00:25:59,080 --> 00:26:03,200 Oh, you want more. Your teeth are actually quite big, aren't they? 352 00:26:03,200 --> 00:26:05,720 More? More? 353 00:26:05,720 --> 00:26:06,880 You want a full mouthful? 354 00:26:06,880 --> 00:26:08,400 OK. How about that? 355 00:26:08,400 --> 00:26:10,720 More? Goodness me. 356 00:26:10,720 --> 00:26:14,600 OK. This is the most extraordinary sight. 357 00:26:16,640 --> 00:26:18,440 They say Asian elephants, I know, 358 00:26:18,440 --> 00:26:20,640 are smaller than African elephants but, still, 359 00:26:20,640 --> 00:26:26,360 when you are this close to an Asian elly, it looks like a truck. 360 00:26:26,360 --> 00:26:27,920 OK, OK. I'll get more. 361 00:26:27,920 --> 00:26:28,960 I'll get more. 362 00:26:30,240 --> 00:26:32,880 I'm glad she's a herbivore. 363 00:26:33,840 --> 00:26:36,000 They eat so much, don't they? 364 00:26:36,000 --> 00:26:37,360 Unbelievable. It is true. 365 00:26:37,360 --> 00:26:39,080 Elephants are eating like elephants. 366 00:26:39,080 --> 00:26:43,480 They need to eat over hundreds and hundreds of kilograms per day. 367 00:26:43,480 --> 00:26:45,560 Do you not want this? There we go. 368 00:26:47,320 --> 00:26:49,400 The forest is shrinking here, 369 00:26:49,400 --> 00:26:52,360 and there's been a ban placed on the export 370 00:26:52,360 --> 00:26:54,560 of some timber from Myanmar. 371 00:26:57,200 --> 00:26:59,520 So there's nothing really left. 372 00:26:59,520 --> 00:27:03,160 There's not enough work left for them to do, 373 00:27:03,160 --> 00:27:07,240 which means there's not enough money to be earned 374 00:27:07,240 --> 00:27:10,640 for their owners and carers to feed them. 375 00:27:12,400 --> 00:27:15,720 Which means a lot of elephants are not getting work, 376 00:27:15,720 --> 00:27:17,920 and they are going hungry. 377 00:27:20,000 --> 00:27:21,760 That's it. No, that's it. 378 00:27:21,760 --> 00:27:22,800 No more. 379 00:27:24,960 --> 00:27:26,240 You're enormous... 380 00:27:28,040 --> 00:27:29,080 And snotty. 381 00:27:37,840 --> 00:27:41,360 Each elephant here has its own mahout, dedicated to its care. 382 00:27:43,680 --> 00:27:47,240 It was time for an essential part of the day - bath time. 383 00:27:55,480 --> 00:27:58,240 She likes everywhere you washed her. 384 00:27:58,240 --> 00:28:03,200 But be careful where you wash, you know, near the ears area, 385 00:28:03,200 --> 00:28:04,880 she gets a little bit itchy sometimes. 386 00:28:10,880 --> 00:28:14,800 So this is some sort of natural skin care product for elephants - 387 00:28:14,800 --> 00:28:16,880 a bit of an acacia tree. 388 00:28:16,880 --> 00:28:22,080 Deforestation is also a huge threat to these ellies' wild cousins. 389 00:28:22,080 --> 00:28:24,200 Elephants are endangered across Asia. 390 00:28:24,200 --> 00:28:27,800 Here it's possible there's just over 1,000 left in the wild. 391 00:28:27,800 --> 00:28:30,360 So the sanctuary's embarked on an ambitious project. 392 00:28:31,400 --> 00:28:34,480 So this way... To rebuild some of the elephants' habitat. 393 00:28:34,480 --> 00:28:36,760 OK. I met Tin Win's husband, Tun Tun Win. 394 00:28:36,760 --> 00:28:40,400 Oh, goodness. So this is your nursery. 395 00:28:40,400 --> 00:28:41,440 Nursery. 396 00:28:42,840 --> 00:28:45,720 Every visitor to Greenhill Valley is invited 397 00:28:45,720 --> 00:28:47,920 to plant their very own teak tree. 398 00:28:50,320 --> 00:28:52,800 So far an incredible 45,000 saplings 399 00:28:52,800 --> 00:28:54,800 have been put into the ground. 400 00:28:56,920 --> 00:28:58,480 Excellent work, Tin Tin. 401 00:28:58,480 --> 00:29:03,120 All right. Is that too deep? 402 00:29:03,120 --> 00:29:04,720 No. Is that acceptable? 403 00:29:04,720 --> 00:29:07,840 Yes. Why don't we name one after your son, 404 00:29:07,840 --> 00:29:09,440 and one after my son? 405 00:29:09,440 --> 00:29:10,480 Your son's ten. 406 00:29:11,840 --> 00:29:13,320 Can. My son is six. 407 00:29:13,320 --> 00:29:16,200 Jake. So this is Can. 408 00:29:16,200 --> 00:29:17,400 And your will be? 409 00:29:17,400 --> 00:29:18,880 My one's going to be called Jake. 410 00:29:19,920 --> 00:29:21,760 Because, frankly, 411 00:29:21,760 --> 00:29:23,760 this is about the next generation 412 00:29:23,760 --> 00:29:26,080 and how soon there's a risk there won't be 413 00:29:26,080 --> 00:29:28,080 any elephants in the wild for them, 414 00:29:28,080 --> 00:29:29,760 which is a horrific thought. 415 00:29:40,920 --> 00:29:45,480 Tiny deed done, I continued my journey further into Shan State. 416 00:29:46,480 --> 00:29:50,200 It's home of the largest of Burma's ethnic minorities - 417 00:29:50,200 --> 00:29:52,600 the Shan people, who make up around one in ten 418 00:29:52,600 --> 00:29:54,160 of the population of Burma. 419 00:29:55,520 --> 00:29:57,280 Ever since independence 420 00:29:57,280 --> 00:29:59,880 they've complained of discrimination and persecution 421 00:29:59,880 --> 00:30:02,760 at the hands of the military. 422 00:30:02,760 --> 00:30:06,960 Before democracy came their language was even banned in schools. 423 00:30:06,960 --> 00:30:10,840 But they fiercely protected their culture. 424 00:30:10,840 --> 00:30:13,480 And I've come to a Balloon Festival. 425 00:30:13,480 --> 00:30:16,680 Traditionally it marks the end of the rainy season, 426 00:30:16,680 --> 00:30:19,520 and it's also just a chance to have a good time. 427 00:30:25,440 --> 00:30:28,280 Each year, people from all over Shan State come here, 428 00:30:28,280 --> 00:30:31,080 to their capital, Taunggyi, to celebrate. 429 00:30:31,080 --> 00:30:34,600 For a whole week, teams compete to release the most spectacular and 430 00:30:34,600 --> 00:30:36,600 enormous balloons. 431 00:30:36,600 --> 00:30:38,640 Now that is a balloon! 432 00:30:42,720 --> 00:30:45,800 Entire communities get behind their team. 433 00:30:45,800 --> 00:30:48,720 There are huge amounts at stake... ENERGETIC MUSIC PLAYS 434 00:30:50,360 --> 00:30:52,240 ..£4,000 for the winners. 435 00:30:59,840 --> 00:31:02,560 I'd arranged to meet the leader of 436 00:31:02,560 --> 00:31:05,680 one of Shan State's top balloon teams. 437 00:31:05,680 --> 00:31:08,960 We are just very pleased, we're very pleased to be here. 438 00:31:08,960 --> 00:31:12,960 So you are the best balloon team in all of Myanmar. 439 00:31:14,840 --> 00:31:16,200 What's going to happen tonight? 440 00:31:25,880 --> 00:31:27,720 Did you just say, "fireball?" 441 00:31:29,080 --> 00:31:30,920 LAUGHTER 442 00:31:30,920 --> 00:31:34,040 CHANTING 443 00:31:34,040 --> 00:31:37,360 The team has spent two months preparing their balloon and a hefty 444 00:31:37,360 --> 00:31:39,760 payload of fireworks. 445 00:31:39,760 --> 00:31:41,400 How many fireworks do you have? 446 00:31:48,000 --> 00:31:51,920 70 kilos of home-made fireworks?! 447 00:31:55,000 --> 00:31:56,800 They're readying. 448 00:31:56,800 --> 00:31:58,760 HE SPEAKS IN OWN LANGUAGE 449 00:31:59,960 --> 00:32:01,440 They want everybody back. 450 00:32:03,000 --> 00:32:05,400 A string is going up to hold people back. 451 00:32:05,400 --> 00:32:06,640 Excellent. 452 00:32:22,040 --> 00:32:23,600 WHISTLES BLOW 453 00:32:27,000 --> 00:32:32,040 It's just completely and totally fantastic. 454 00:32:38,720 --> 00:32:42,200 There's a tension and a stress amongst the team because, of course, 455 00:32:42,200 --> 00:32:45,040 this is when it can go horribly wrong, 456 00:32:45,040 --> 00:32:47,880 because the balloon is made of paper. 457 00:32:50,000 --> 00:32:51,360 Paper! 458 00:33:01,560 --> 00:33:05,720 The burner goes in. So that's the key, crucial burner, 459 00:33:05,720 --> 00:33:10,400 so the explosives are now being brought in. 460 00:33:10,400 --> 00:33:12,200 Bloody hell! 461 00:33:19,040 --> 00:33:20,800 Look at that! 462 00:33:20,800 --> 00:33:22,960 CHEERING 463 00:33:27,240 --> 00:33:31,160 Yes! Come on! 464 00:33:33,520 --> 00:33:35,680 Stage one complete. 465 00:33:35,680 --> 00:33:37,920 The balloon's taken off without exploding. 466 00:33:41,640 --> 00:33:44,040 How far into the heavens will it rise? 467 00:33:54,320 --> 00:33:58,120 40 minutes?! Yeah. Wow, that's quite a challenge! OK. 468 00:34:13,400 --> 00:34:16,680 Not every launch went completely to plan. 469 00:34:19,080 --> 00:34:21,560 CHEERING 470 00:34:23,080 --> 00:34:25,640 Bloody hell! 471 00:34:26,800 --> 00:34:30,960 Wow! Shit! 472 00:34:36,600 --> 00:34:39,000 I took a minor hit. 473 00:34:39,000 --> 00:34:42,080 I was just whacked by a firework. 474 00:34:42,080 --> 00:34:44,560 It hit me like the proverbial rocket. 475 00:34:44,560 --> 00:34:51,560 Our BBC team - professional to the end - had produced a fire blanket, 476 00:34:51,560 --> 00:34:53,560 which we can all shelter behind. 477 00:34:55,360 --> 00:34:58,800 We'll protect the camera and the footage, and, of course, Jonathan. 478 00:35:18,880 --> 00:35:21,560 THEY CHANT IN OWN LANGUAGE 479 00:35:30,760 --> 00:35:33,840 As I learned, even on the first leg of my travels here, 480 00:35:33,840 --> 00:35:36,280 Burma is a very troubled country. 481 00:35:36,280 --> 00:35:39,960 I headed deeper into Shan State, where there are conflict zones that 482 00:35:39,960 --> 00:35:43,640 are sealed off by the Burmese army, to prevent outsiders - 483 00:35:43,640 --> 00:35:46,120 especially TV crews - from entering. 484 00:35:47,800 --> 00:35:53,600 The area I'm heading into now is in a state of long-term crisis. 485 00:35:53,600 --> 00:35:57,160 There has been conflict here over decades, 486 00:35:57,160 --> 00:35:59,280 and right now, it's starting to get worse. 487 00:36:01,360 --> 00:36:05,320 The world's now aware of the Burmese military's long-term human rights 488 00:36:05,320 --> 00:36:07,960 abuses against Rohingya Muslims - 489 00:36:07,960 --> 00:36:10,480 recently attacked and driven out of Myanmar, 490 00:36:10,480 --> 00:36:12,960 in a campaign the UN has called ethnic cleansing. 491 00:36:14,120 --> 00:36:15,920 The Rohingya are not alone. 492 00:36:15,920 --> 00:36:18,240 Across Burma, there are numerous conflict areas, 493 00:36:18,240 --> 00:36:21,560 where ethnic minority groups have been fighting the Burmese state. 494 00:36:24,120 --> 00:36:26,080 There's been war in the Shan area - 495 00:36:26,080 --> 00:36:29,600 near and along Burma's eastern border, and my best chance to get 496 00:36:29,600 --> 00:36:33,120 into the conflict zone there was to head to neighbouring Thailand. 497 00:36:38,480 --> 00:36:42,840 From Thailand I planned to double back across the border into Burma. 498 00:36:42,840 --> 00:36:46,280 But the Thai authorities aren't always keen on outsiders crossing 499 00:36:46,280 --> 00:36:49,840 into restricted areas of Burma, so I needed to keep a low profile. 500 00:36:52,520 --> 00:36:55,000 We're in a sort of rural part. 501 00:36:55,000 --> 00:36:56,880 Now I'm going to stick out like a sore thumb, 502 00:36:56,880 --> 00:36:59,040 so we need to keep the windows up. 503 00:36:59,040 --> 00:37:02,000 And I think this is where we're going to do the transfer from one... 504 00:37:02,000 --> 00:37:04,200 from our car to the others. 505 00:37:06,400 --> 00:37:10,480 OK. There are Thai army checkpoints all along the road towards Burma. 506 00:37:13,680 --> 00:37:15,160 If they knew where we were going, 507 00:37:15,160 --> 00:37:17,480 we'd be stopped and quite possibly arrested. 508 00:37:19,320 --> 00:37:21,080 It was time to change vehicles. 509 00:37:28,280 --> 00:37:30,320 It's quite nerve-racking, actually, 510 00:37:30,320 --> 00:37:36,400 because people are taking risks to get us into the Shan area. 511 00:37:36,400 --> 00:37:40,160 They're risks that they're saying they're willing to take, they want 512 00:37:40,160 --> 00:37:44,240 to take, not for us but to show you what's going on there. 513 00:37:55,280 --> 00:37:57,560 We've just gone through a checkpoint 514 00:37:57,560 --> 00:37:59,400 and, um, it was OK. 515 00:37:59,400 --> 00:38:01,640 They seemed to know our guy. 516 00:38:01,640 --> 00:38:03,400 We were pretty much waved through. 517 00:38:14,160 --> 00:38:16,760 HE SPEAKS IN OWN LANGUAGE 518 00:38:26,640 --> 00:38:29,360 If the best thing to do is to walk around, then we should walk. 519 00:38:31,720 --> 00:38:34,760 There's another checkpoint ahead and we're not sure we can get through it 520 00:38:34,760 --> 00:38:39,040 in the car, so we're going to have to try sneaking around it on foot. 521 00:38:39,040 --> 00:38:41,600 We were just a stone's throw from the border with Burma. 522 00:38:47,280 --> 00:38:49,320 So from here we've got to walk. 523 00:38:53,040 --> 00:38:56,760 I really don't like this. We've had to abandon most of our kit in the 524 00:38:56,760 --> 00:38:58,800 vehicle that's gone ahead, and 525 00:38:58,800 --> 00:39:01,800 apparently they're going to be able to get that past the checkpoint as 526 00:39:01,800 --> 00:39:03,240 long as we're not in the cars, 527 00:39:03,240 --> 00:39:05,840 but we've been left with basically nothing. 528 00:39:05,840 --> 00:39:07,760 We just had to bail out in a rush. 529 00:39:15,320 --> 00:39:17,440 But we've got to be pretty quiet, 530 00:39:17,440 --> 00:39:20,240 because the army base is just over there. 531 00:39:21,600 --> 00:39:25,520 We can't use any lights, because apparently they have cameras 532 00:39:25,520 --> 00:39:28,480 watching for movement, and... 533 00:39:28,480 --> 00:39:31,400 they find us, they'll catch us, basically. 534 00:39:33,760 --> 00:39:36,840 There's a vehicle coming. Get down, get down, get down! 535 00:39:36,840 --> 00:39:38,720 They're saying, "Get down." 536 00:39:46,440 --> 00:39:47,640 OK. 537 00:39:49,440 --> 00:39:54,560 So just here, we're crossing from Thailand into Burma, into Myanmar, 538 00:39:54,560 --> 00:39:56,200 and into Shan State. 539 00:39:59,080 --> 00:40:00,400 There's somebody here. 540 00:40:01,720 --> 00:40:03,680 There's somebody walking towards us. 541 00:40:06,240 --> 00:40:10,040 OK. So it's a friendly face who's come to meet us. 542 00:40:11,320 --> 00:40:14,480 After a short trek through the forest, we finally joined up with 543 00:40:14,480 --> 00:40:16,840 our vehicles on the Burmese side of the border. 544 00:40:16,840 --> 00:40:19,760 So we've made it across into Shan State... 545 00:40:25,560 --> 00:40:27,800 ..and I think... 546 00:40:27,800 --> 00:40:29,680 Oh, God, I think we've actually arrived. 547 00:40:29,680 --> 00:40:36,160 We've just come out of the darkness into what looks like a military camp. 548 00:40:36,160 --> 00:40:39,080 I'd arrived at a place called Loi Taleng. 549 00:40:39,080 --> 00:40:41,520 Waiting for me was Charm Tong... 550 00:40:41,520 --> 00:40:42,680 Hello, hello! 551 00:40:43,680 --> 00:40:47,160 ..a teacher and Shan human rights activist. 552 00:40:47,160 --> 00:40:50,280 We are now in Shan State. Yes, you are. 553 00:40:50,280 --> 00:40:52,000 Phew! 554 00:40:52,000 --> 00:40:55,560 She was there to welcome me to the headquarters of a rebel army. 555 00:41:08,240 --> 00:41:11,920 When Burma won independence from Britain in 1948, 556 00:41:11,920 --> 00:41:14,920 some ethnic minorities had been promised a degree of independence, 557 00:41:14,920 --> 00:41:16,960 but the promises weren't kept. 558 00:41:20,920 --> 00:41:22,480 Ethnic groups took up arms. 559 00:41:23,680 --> 00:41:27,360 Then, in 1962, the Burmese military seized power in a coup. 560 00:41:28,680 --> 00:41:34,120 They occupied or invaded many ethnic areas, to keep tight control over the country. 561 00:41:35,400 --> 00:41:38,680 And the world's longest-running civil war really began. 562 00:41:40,840 --> 00:41:44,640 There's at least six different ethnic armed organisations fighting 563 00:41:44,640 --> 00:41:47,960 with the Burmese military in Shan State. 564 00:41:47,960 --> 00:41:50,920 We are with the Shan State Army South. 565 00:41:53,920 --> 00:41:55,920 Oh, bloody hell. 566 00:41:59,960 --> 00:42:01,720 This is a guerrilla group 567 00:42:01,720 --> 00:42:06,560 that operates in the mountains and jungles of eastern Burma. 568 00:42:06,560 --> 00:42:08,760 It's a guerrilla group, but it's an army. 569 00:42:10,200 --> 00:42:14,200 Lieutenant General Yawd Serk commands roughly 8,000 troops. 570 00:42:42,480 --> 00:42:44,520 These guys are completely hard-core. 571 00:42:44,520 --> 00:42:47,600 They've been fighting now for decades. 572 00:42:53,960 --> 00:42:56,480 COMMANDS GIVEN IN OWN LANGUAGE 573 00:43:36,720 --> 00:43:40,120 MILITARY CADENCE 574 00:43:44,080 --> 00:43:46,760 Running an army costs a fortune. 575 00:43:46,760 --> 00:43:51,280 The Shan area is rich in timber, gold, and gemstones - like rubies. 576 00:43:51,280 --> 00:43:54,400 But this is also the infamous Golden Triangle, 577 00:43:54,400 --> 00:43:56,760 where a quarter of the world's opium is grown. 578 00:43:56,760 --> 00:43:59,280 MILITARY CADENCE 579 00:44:01,000 --> 00:44:04,280 Both the Burmese army and resistance movements have been accused of 580 00:44:04,280 --> 00:44:06,600 involvement in drug trafficking - 581 00:44:06,600 --> 00:44:09,440 a charge the Shan State Army South denies. 582 00:44:18,320 --> 00:44:20,960 That's how you do it. HE LAUGHS 583 00:44:21,960 --> 00:44:24,160 WHISTLE BLOWS 584 00:44:38,280 --> 00:44:40,160 What are they doing now? 585 00:45:11,520 --> 00:45:13,560 HE BLOWS WHISTLE 586 00:45:21,840 --> 00:45:25,920 More than 12 million people in Burma live in areas affected by conflict 587 00:45:25,920 --> 00:45:29,480 or tensions between the government and ethnic armed groups. 588 00:45:32,280 --> 00:45:35,400 Because of fierce fighting, there are nearly 500,000 displaced 589 00:45:35,400 --> 00:45:38,000 people along the Chinese and Thai borders. 590 00:45:40,080 --> 00:45:44,160 Here, the Shan State Army South protects thousands of Shan civilians 591 00:45:44,160 --> 00:45:45,680 who fled, seeking safety. 592 00:45:47,320 --> 00:45:51,440 My guide, Charm Tong, took me to the local school, 593 00:45:51,440 --> 00:45:55,920 which is educating around 700 children in their own Shan language. 594 00:45:59,560 --> 00:46:02,040 THEY GREET EACH OTHER IN SHAN 595 00:46:44,520 --> 00:46:48,440 Many children here have had to leave their families to escape fighting. 596 00:46:48,440 --> 00:46:51,800 Some are orphans. When Charm Tong was just six, 597 00:46:51,800 --> 00:46:54,360 her parents sent her out of the war zone. 598 00:46:54,360 --> 00:46:56,880 She grew up in an orphanage, in shelters like this. 599 00:46:58,160 --> 00:47:00,440 How do you come to be here? 600 00:47:49,160 --> 00:47:51,600 How many times have you heard stories like this? 601 00:47:53,880 --> 00:47:56,800 Every time. Still like this. SHE SOBS 602 00:47:58,200 --> 00:48:00,560 It's just gone on too long, hasn't it? 603 00:48:02,280 --> 00:48:05,000 The depth of the suffering here 604 00:48:05,000 --> 00:48:06,920 and how endless it's been. 605 00:48:09,920 --> 00:48:12,520 Do you feel like quite a traumatised people? 606 00:48:15,600 --> 00:48:19,040 Yeah, I think it's just impunity that the... 607 00:48:21,040 --> 00:48:24,040 ..you know, there's all kinds of atrocities that's been committed. 608 00:48:24,040 --> 00:48:26,120 It's too long. Mm-hmm. 609 00:48:26,120 --> 00:48:27,920 And there's been no justice. Yeah. 610 00:48:30,520 --> 00:48:34,680 Is that what...? And that's why we want to change the situation. 611 00:48:34,680 --> 00:48:37,880 We have to work harder, so that we can change this kind of situation. 612 00:48:42,680 --> 00:48:46,400 For decades international human rights organisations have documented 613 00:48:46,400 --> 00:48:48,560 horrific abuses against Burma's 614 00:48:48,560 --> 00:48:51,200 ethnic minorities, including the Shan. 615 00:48:52,240 --> 00:48:57,680 Forced relocation, forced labour, mass rape, torture, looting, 616 00:48:57,680 --> 00:48:59,080 and arbitrary killings. 617 00:49:00,440 --> 00:49:03,000 With the ethnic cleansing of the Rohingya people, 618 00:49:03,000 --> 00:49:06,800 the world is now waking up to the crimes of Burma's military leaders. 619 00:49:07,800 --> 00:49:10,880 But shockingly, since the transition to democracy 620 00:49:10,880 --> 00:49:14,520 and arrival of Aung San Suu Kyi as the national leader, 621 00:49:14,520 --> 00:49:18,760 the military has actually ramped up attacks on ethnic areas. 622 00:49:18,760 --> 00:49:21,960 Burma is opening up to the international community for 623 00:49:21,960 --> 00:49:25,600 investment, and the local peoples don't have any right to own any 624 00:49:25,600 --> 00:49:28,800 ownership of the land and rivers and natural resources, 625 00:49:28,800 --> 00:49:32,960 and the Burma military just put more control, you know, make the 626 00:49:32,960 --> 00:49:36,920 shelling, attacks, offensive, so that they can have more control. 627 00:49:39,320 --> 00:49:43,320 Shan State is incredibly rich in natural resources. 628 00:49:43,320 --> 00:49:46,480 With Burma now free to trade with the outside world, 629 00:49:46,480 --> 00:49:51,280 there's even more incentive to take control of the Shan people's land, 630 00:49:51,280 --> 00:49:52,680 and there are regular clashes 631 00:49:52,680 --> 00:49:55,000 between the rebels and the Burmese military. 632 00:49:56,240 --> 00:49:57,920 OK. Flipping heck. 633 00:49:59,520 --> 00:50:00,800 Going off on patrol. 634 00:50:05,400 --> 00:50:10,320 Soldiers are waiting. A unit of 60 Shan soldiers were setting out, 635 00:50:10,320 --> 00:50:12,680 led by Colonel Jai Hong Can. 636 00:50:12,680 --> 00:50:15,440 When your soldiers go on patrol, 637 00:50:15,440 --> 00:50:17,920 presumably they always have to be aware there's a risk of... 638 00:50:17,920 --> 00:50:21,720 Of course. ..of conflict with the Burmese military. 639 00:50:21,720 --> 00:50:25,720 Sure. Sometimes, we admit, the fighting can take place. 640 00:50:25,720 --> 00:50:28,400 So we have to be very careful all the time. 641 00:50:28,400 --> 00:50:30,400 So there's always a risk? 642 00:50:30,400 --> 00:50:32,400 Always. 643 00:50:32,400 --> 00:50:34,360 When you're holding the guns, 644 00:50:34,360 --> 00:50:37,040 you have be sure that you have the enemy in front of you. 645 00:50:39,080 --> 00:50:44,640 What inspired you or prompted you to join the fight, initially? 646 00:50:44,640 --> 00:50:46,760 Human rights abuses. 647 00:50:46,760 --> 00:50:50,600 You cannot just stand back and watch what is going on. 648 00:50:50,600 --> 00:50:54,480 You, as a, as a man... 649 00:50:54,480 --> 00:50:58,880 you have to find a kind of dignity of your... 650 00:50:58,880 --> 00:51:01,560 of your...how do you say, of your people. 651 00:51:01,560 --> 00:51:04,160 So that is why. We are fighting for our dignity, 652 00:51:04,160 --> 00:51:06,080 we are fighting for our cultures. 653 00:51:06,080 --> 00:51:08,640 If you don't fight, you are a dog. 654 00:51:08,640 --> 00:51:10,880 A dog? We are human! 655 00:51:10,880 --> 00:51:12,880 They are bullying us, they abusing us. 656 00:51:12,880 --> 00:51:15,440 As a human being, what will you do? 657 00:51:15,440 --> 00:51:19,720 Fight back, man. But still you have to be careful. 658 00:51:19,720 --> 00:51:22,480 We do not know when the enemy will be coming to attack us. 659 00:51:29,520 --> 00:51:33,600 The soldiers marched on, combat-ready, hour after hour. 660 00:52:01,240 --> 00:52:04,600 This is quite a good position, isn't it? 661 00:52:04,600 --> 00:52:07,120 You have an incredible view all around. 662 00:52:08,480 --> 00:52:11,280 OK. We're making camp here tonight. 663 00:52:12,360 --> 00:52:15,840 The toilet is there. You look at the sign there. 664 00:52:15,840 --> 00:52:18,800 And it goes down a little bit and you see the toilet. 665 00:52:18,800 --> 00:52:21,320 It's an open toilet, sorry. THEY LAUGH 666 00:52:21,320 --> 00:52:23,120 We understand, don't worry. 667 00:52:23,120 --> 00:52:25,800 It's in the jungle. We're in the jungle. 668 00:52:31,480 --> 00:52:33,560 There are hundreds of local militias 669 00:52:33,560 --> 00:52:36,960 and around 20 ethnic armed groups in Burma. 670 00:52:36,960 --> 00:52:39,920 The largest has perhaps 30,000 troops. 671 00:52:39,920 --> 00:52:42,520 Oh, man! 672 00:52:42,520 --> 00:52:45,520 Some are not just fighting the Burmese army, but each other. 673 00:52:47,440 --> 00:52:49,520 It's made the conflict even more deadly. 674 00:52:53,720 --> 00:52:58,120 So noodles and bean paste? Yeah. This is the leaves from the trees. 675 00:52:58,120 --> 00:53:02,920 Just eat them with the food? Yeah, we eat them with the bean paste. 676 00:53:02,920 --> 00:53:06,280 These fighters told me about a clash with a rival rebel army. 677 00:53:28,120 --> 00:53:30,600 Despite infighting between the rebel groups, 678 00:53:30,600 --> 00:53:33,600 the Burmese army remains the common enemy. 679 00:53:33,600 --> 00:53:40,200 We try our best, we are trying to stay as a Shan, as a human. 680 00:53:40,200 --> 00:53:43,400 We are not here to be a slave. Hmm. 681 00:53:43,400 --> 00:53:46,640 As long as there is no political... 682 00:53:46,640 --> 00:53:50,800 Settlement between the Burmese and the Shan, 683 00:53:50,800 --> 00:53:55,600 as long as they still oppress us, bully us, 684 00:53:55,600 --> 00:53:58,280 the fight will continue. 685 00:53:58,280 --> 00:54:02,560 Maybe I will die in the future, on the battle. I don't know. 686 00:54:02,560 --> 00:54:04,640 My children will come up again. 687 00:54:04,640 --> 00:54:06,880 This is how we are going to fight. 688 00:54:06,880 --> 00:54:09,440 It's an idea worth dying for? Mm-hmm. 689 00:54:09,440 --> 00:54:12,880 Certainly worth fighting for. Yes. 690 00:54:12,880 --> 00:54:17,040 I think most people could understand that. Yeah. 691 00:54:17,040 --> 00:54:20,520 I think so. Yeah. HE CHUCKLES 692 00:54:27,560 --> 00:54:30,040 This is pretty extraordinary, actually. 693 00:54:32,040 --> 00:54:36,040 We are inside the infamous Golden Triangle, 694 00:54:36,040 --> 00:54:42,440 we've been out on patrol and are now staying overnight with a guerrilla army in Shan State. 695 00:54:45,400 --> 00:54:47,320 It's been a long day. 696 00:54:47,320 --> 00:54:50,720 I'm looking forward to a comfortable night's sleep in the hammock. 697 00:54:50,720 --> 00:54:54,560 It's a slight contradiction in terms, but I think it'll be all right. 698 00:55:19,200 --> 00:55:22,520 The Burmese leader, Aung San Suu Kyi, has said ending the country's 699 00:55:22,520 --> 00:55:24,800 civil conflicts is her top priority. 700 00:55:26,600 --> 00:55:28,640 The rebel armies are no angels, 701 00:55:28,640 --> 00:55:31,400 but this one and others have signed a ceasefire agreement. 702 00:55:33,120 --> 00:55:37,000 The Burmese military, however, have continued their attacks. 703 00:55:37,000 --> 00:55:39,800 Aung San Suu Kyi can't or won't stop the military 704 00:55:39,800 --> 00:55:42,360 who still control parts of the government. 705 00:55:44,680 --> 00:55:47,360 I was coming to the end of my journey. 706 00:55:47,360 --> 00:55:50,400 I went to meet the rebel leader on the edge of his territory. 707 00:55:50,400 --> 00:55:52,760 So we are now heading up to the front line. 708 00:56:10,440 --> 00:56:13,440 Oh, my God! Look. This is a trench! 709 00:56:17,240 --> 00:56:19,160 Flipping heck. 710 00:56:40,720 --> 00:56:45,320 So there are dozens, then, of Burmese army bases deeper inside 711 00:56:45,320 --> 00:56:48,360 Shan State, out there, across the hills. 712 00:56:49,880 --> 00:56:52,600 Does it feel like they're an enemy occupying your land? 713 00:57:09,760 --> 00:57:11,960 And what happens if the peace negotiations fail? 714 00:57:19,000 --> 00:57:23,720 Looking at the number of guards and soldiers that have to be here when 715 00:57:23,720 --> 00:57:27,760 you're here, because there is presumably, there is always the risk of an attack. 716 00:57:32,160 --> 00:57:34,000 Talking to the Shan people, 717 00:57:34,000 --> 00:57:37,480 it was clear the tactics used to drive out hundreds of thousands of 718 00:57:37,480 --> 00:57:40,480 Rohingya have also been used against other ethnic groups. 719 00:57:41,760 --> 00:57:44,960 As a result this country has been more deeply affected by civil war 720 00:57:44,960 --> 00:57:46,600 than any other in Southeast Asia. 721 00:57:49,400 --> 00:57:51,880 The outlook for Burma is worrying. 722 00:57:51,880 --> 00:57:55,960 Aung San Suu Kyi has failed to speak out against, let alone tackle 723 00:57:55,960 --> 00:58:00,280 the root cause of so many of the problems facing this beautiful land. 724 00:58:01,440 --> 00:58:05,240 The country may have had democratic elections, but clearly there is 725 00:58:05,240 --> 00:58:10,320 still conflict here. Peace has not come to Myanmar yet. 726 00:58:11,680 --> 00:58:14,480 I think what I've learned here has come as a real shock to me, 727 00:58:14,480 --> 00:58:19,560 actually. Is really obvious to me that the biggest problem facing this 728 00:58:19,560 --> 00:58:23,400 country, I think, is the Burmese military. 729 00:58:23,400 --> 00:58:27,200 They are the biggest issue here, but they're also a huge problem for 730 00:58:27,200 --> 00:58:29,120 people in the rest of the country as well, 731 00:58:29,120 --> 00:58:33,280 who have to deal with their power, their corruption, their abuse. 732 00:58:34,640 --> 00:58:40,800 Until the Burmese military are reformed and transformed, 733 00:58:40,800 --> 00:58:44,440 I don't think Burma can ever really truly change.